What to do in Tromsø? Here’s the ultimate travel guide to discover the region – 2026

There are plenty of labels for Tromsø. The northernmost city in the world, the Arctic capital, the Paris of the North, the capital of the northern lights. Well, ok, all of that is a little bit true. It’s the northernmost city, it really is the capital of the northern lights (we’ll definitely come back to that) and, surprisingly, it really is nicknamed the Paris of the North (Norden Paris, you see it just about everywhere), but it has nothing to do with the architecture, which is about as Parisian as sauerkraut. While the rest of the country wasn’t necessarily all that into fashion, the women of Tromsø were always at the peak of style and elegance.

I love Tromsø for quite a few reasons. First off, the city is lovely and pleasant. No high-rises, just recent condos or wooden houses, and a very cute town centre. On top of that, the surroundings are exceptional in terms of scenery, between fjords and mountains. You can do a whole heap of activities and walks here, you really won’t get bored. It’s the outdoor city par excellence.
Finally, it’s the capital of the northern lights. It’s not just a legend. It’s true. The city is ideally located and just about everything revolves around the lights, whether with an agency or on your own. You’ll find loads of superb spots to watch them from once you get away from the light pollution.

So obviously, and we’ll look at this more closely, the cost of living is high (you can work out your budget here), but Tromsø and its region deserve at least a few days of your time, especially if it’s your first trip up to the far north to watch the northern lights, because everything is easy here.

I’ve gathered here what I’ve learned from many years of travelling to Tromsø, hoping you’ll find all the information you need to plan your trip with peace of mind. You’ll find the articles, followed by a whole series of questions and answers.

5 reasons to go to Tromsø

• Magnificent scenery, fjords and mountains
• The northern lights, do you even have to ask!
• Everything is easy, ideal for a first trip to the far north
• Plenty of places to see
• The city is really lovely
• Perfect for kicking off a 2-week itinerary with Senja and the Lofoten!

FAQ – Tromsø in brief

If you don’t want to waste time reading the whole article, here are all the essential bits of info and links for your stay in Tromsø:

• PLACES TO SEE
  • Telegrafbukta beach
  • Fjellheisen cable car
  • Kvaløya island with the road to Sommarøy, the road to Tromvik via Ersfjord and Grøtfjord
  • Signaldalen mountain
  • The Lyngen Alps
• MAIN ACTIVITIES
  • See the northern lights with an agency like Wandering Owl, for example
  • 10 spots to watch the northern lights
  • See whales and orcas with Brim Explorer
  • Go dog sledding at Breivikeidet with Norwegian Travel
  • Go snowmobiling in the Lyngen Alps with Camp Troll
  • See the reindeer with Tromsø Arctic Reindeer
  • Go snowshoeing on Kvaløya with Wandering Owl
  • Discover the fjords of Tromsø by boat with Polar Adventures
• 4 HIKES TO DO AROUND TROMSØ
  • Brosmetinden for a lovely view over Kvaløya and Senja
  • Ørnfløya for a superb view over the Sommarøy archipelago
  • Fløya, to look down over Tromsø
  • Nattmålsfjellet and its magnificent view over Ersfjord
• 5 RECOMMENDED PLACES TO STAY
  • The Radisson Blu hotel
  • the The Dock 69 39 By Scandic hotel
  • The budget-friendly Ami Hotel
  • The Viking Cabins in the Lyngen Alps
  • The Sommarøy Arctic Hotel on Kvaløya
• PRACTICAL INFO
  • How long to stay in Tromsø: at least 3 days, 5 days in winter to make the most of the activities and the northern lights
  • When to come to Tromsø:
    • if you want to see the northern lights: from September to the end of March
    • for snow: from mid-November onwards
    • for hiking: from late May to mid-October
  • Should you rent a car:
    • not mandatory, but you’ll be dependent on agencies for the outings and the northern lights
    • super handy, but you need to compare and above all know what to expect on the roads in winter
    • here you can see how to do Tromsø without a car
  • Do you need to go through an agency to see the northern lights:
    • if you have a car, not mandatory if you know how to hunt for them. But taking one at the start of your trip can be worthwhile
    • if you don’t have a car, it’s essential
    • find out why to go through a northern lights agency in Tromsø
  • Which itineraries for discovering Tromsø
    • Here’s a one-week itinerary in Tromsø
    • Here’s a 2-week itinerary between Tromsø, Senja and the Lofoten islands
    • You can also visit Senja in a day from Tromsø

The must-see places in the Tromsø region

In Tromsø and its region, there really is a lot to see, and that’s even without mentioning the activities. These are places you can reach fairly quickly by car.

Visiting the pretty town of Tromsø

I know it seems obvious, but don’t hesitate to take a bit of time to explore Tromsø, especially the town centre, its old wooden houses, its harbour, but also the middle of the island and its pretty lake. From higher up, you get a lovely view over both sides of the town.
Also pop over to Telegrafbukta, it’s nice, and if you don’t have a car it’s a good spot to watch the northern lights. Cross the bridge on foot, go and see the cathedral and the view from the other side.
Two museums are worth visiting: the Polar Museet, which is really interesting, and the Polaria.

So to sum up, on the island of Tromsø you should go to:

• the town centre with the wooden houses
• Telegrafbukta beach
• the cathedral (but no need to go inside)
• the seafront, especially around the new docks and the little harbour with the lighthouse
• the Polarmuseet (Polaria isn’t anything to write home about, and neither is the Troll museum)
• the Tromsø University Museum, interesting for science and Sámi history
• Lake Prestvannet
• and I’ll add the rooftop of the Clarion, which gives a really lovely view

The island of Kvaløya and its fjords

Kvaløya really is a must. A big island with 3 main roads that are all superb. The one that goes to Tromvik (then Rekvik if conditions allow) passes through two gorgeous fjords and offers a pretty magical view, especially over on the Grøtfjord side. Then there’s the one to Sommarøy, a funny little Nordic paradise reached by a fantastic road. You’ll have to go via Ersfjord in particular.
You’ll probably also spot reindeer here and there, especially on the pretty road that goes to Skulsfjord. In short! Kvaløya is somewhere you could spend days exploring 🙂

To keep it short, here’s what you should go and see on Kvaløya:

• Ersfjord
• the road to Tromvik and Rekvik, passing through Grøtfjord
• the road to Sommarøy
• the viewpoint before the Lyfjord tunnel

Discover Kvaløya here

The Lyngen Alps

Heads up, this is a gem. Ok, it’s not juuust around the corner, but the Lyngen Alps rival the Lofoten islands for the title of most beautiful scenery in Norway. Superb mountains rising abruptly out of the sea, a peak that’s always snow-capped, and crazy views from the shores. So you can enjoy the Lyngen from across the water, from Breivikeidet or Skibotn (but we’ll come back to that later) to admire them from afar, but above all up close, with the magnificent fjord that almost cuts the island in two, or at the remote village of Koppangen. Be warned though, the distances are huge and you’ll be making loads of photo stops, so give yourself plenty of time!

Several ways to visit the Lyngen Alps:

• Take the ferry from Breivikeidet (superb), head all the way north, then come back down to Lyngseidet and finally follow the road south, passing through Signaldalen
• Go via Laksvatn, head up to Lakselvbukt, follow the Lyngen Alps as far as Jøvik. And there… it’s the end of the road. Come back down the other little road in the valley that goes to Nordkjosbotn if you want to pass through Signaldalen
• Discover the other side of the Lyngen Alps by going around to the south and take the Northern Lights Road to Skibotn

The mountain of Signaldalen

On the road that leads to the Lyngen, right at the southern end, you turn off to the right to head into a valley and come face to face with one of the most iconic mountains in Norway, Otertind. Ultra-photogenic in a pretty valley where there aren’t many people, you’ll get plenty of viewpoints and can make the most of the river for some great photos.

Do check the weather carefully, because if it’s cloudy you won’t see the mountain’s summit, which is a bit of a shame since that’s mainly what you come here for.

Discover Signaldalen here.

The Fjellheisen viewpoint

Put simply, this is the most beautiful view over Tromsø. From the neighbouring mountain, the cable car’s arrival point offers a fantastic view over the city (which sits on an island), with the mountains of Kvaløya behind. And on top of that, you have the option of going quite far and going for a walk. It’s a fantastic spot for sunset and also for the northern lights! Be warned though, it’s windy, very windy.

Also, the view is insane, but it does start to get a bit pricey. If you’re travelling as a family, then there are “relatively” good rates. But it really is beautiful!

• Click here to find out more about the Fjellheisen

The Breivikeidet valley

Just under half an hour from Tromsø, you’ll find a great valley, a top spot for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, but not only that. The mountains are superb, there isn’t much traffic and you’ll find quite a few spots to watch the northern lights. Be careful though, it really is colder here than elsewhere! Outside winter there are plenty of trailheads, and when you reach the end you get a superb view over the Lyngen Alps.

Pushing on a little, you take the road that leads to Sjursnes, and it’s really worth it. You arrive in another valley where there’ll be absolutely no one, and very little signal too! Which is rare in Norway. You’ll follow a lovely river that promises great photos, and you’ll reach a magnificent, perfectly calm lake, ideal for reflections and sunset. Finally, arriving at Sjursnes, you’ll get yet another lovely view over the Lyngen, majestic mountains!

The area around Lakselvbukt

This is a really nice little corner where there are pretty much no tourists at all. On the road heading south of Tromsø, take the one that turns off to the left at Laksvatn. You’ll see some lakes and then a magnificent fjord. Tip: don’t drive down to it, go on foot instead.

Carrying on, it gets even better. See the cover photo of the article? That was taken a bit further along, where you get a superb view over the Lyngen (them again!), before reaching Lakselvbukt, a pretty, wonderfully peaceful spot nestled among magnificent mountains. And there, you have a choice. Either head up alongside the Lyngen, on the western side, a superb road but one that ends in a dead end at Jøvik (I wasn’t aware of that), or come back down into the valley, also a very pretty road with lots of viewpoints for the northern lights.

The northern lights road to Skibotn

A road I discovered this autumn that’s really worth it. It’s far, ok. But it’s lovely! You “just” have to skirt around the Lyngen Alps and cross over to the other side via the south, notably along the Signaldalen road. Already the stretch between Nordkjosbotn and Oteren is gorgeous. Then it becomes the Northern Light Road, the road of the northern lights. Ok it’s very marketing, but really you’ll find quite a few nice spots to pull over, facing the Lyngen Alps, with superb open views especially as you get closer to Skibotn.

What activities to do in Tromso

You’ll really find a whole bunch of activities to do in Tromso, and all year round. Between the landscapes to explore, the northern lights to admire, the huskies to pamper, the reindeer to feed and plenty more, it’s impossible to get bored in Tromso. Below, I’ve listed lots of activities to do, free and paid, hikes and boat trips. Quite a few of them are suitable for kids.

What’s for sure is that it’s impossible to get bored in Tromso, so here are a few detailed examples below, and direct links if you’d like them:

Watching whales and orcas

This is an activity that’s possible from early November to late January in general, and it’s a truly lovely one. Of course you need a bit of luck since nothing is guaranteed.

But if it’s the right season, I think it’s something to try because it can be a fantastic experience. On top of that, the setting is pretty cool anyway, out in the Norwegian seas and fjords, not bad at all! And you can do it aboard a new electric boat that’s more respectful of the cetaceans

• • In the following article, I introduce you to the best boats to see whales and orcas in Tromso

If you get seasick, take a little tablet beforehand, there’s a short stretch (north of the Lyngen Alps) that can rock a bit. But nothing nasty! If the wind is too strong, then the trips are postponed to another day.

Discover the main boats for watching whales and orcas in Tromso:

• BRIM EXPLORER, hybrid boat, €150, comfortable and recent
• POLAR ADVENTURES, a slightly smaller boat, €160
• NORWEGIAN TRAVEL, large recent catamaran, comfortable, €145
• GREEN GOLD OF NORWAY, RIB boat, €230
• ARCTIC EXPLORER NORWAY, RIB boat, with lunch, €280
• EXPLORE 70°, RIB boat, departing from Skjervoy, €150

Book your boat trip to see the whales and orcas!

Dog sledding, Tromso’s flagship activity

Dog sledding is pretty much a must-do in Tromso and it’s a really fun activity for at least two reasons.

First of all, being with the dogs, who are adorable, a bit crazy, super affectionate and above all bursting with energy.

And then, they love to run, they’re made for it, it’s all they want to do, and they let you know it. Hopping on a sled is a guarantee of a good little adrenaline-filled sequence and it’s great fun. Watch their reaction when you pull out the harness in front of them, they go wild!

• • In the following article, discover the best places to go dog sledding in Tromso
    

There are several interesting kennels that I tell you about in the article. Some of them, the smaller and more remote ones, require a car. Here are the 4 I particularly recommend (with a lot more information in that article!)

• Arctic Resorts: an insane view over the Lyngen Alps, a great team. Transport included
• Run Wild Mushing: a great French-speaking guide in Malangen, requires a car to get there
• Arctic Adventures: an excellent kennel on Kvaloya, transport included
• Into Nature: another French-speaking guide in Malangen (there’s a nest there!), a great little kennel. Excellent reviews. Requires a car

Going to see the reindeer on a Sami farm

Reindeer are emblematic of the region. And they’re inseparable from the Sami, the people native to the area. You can see them along the roadside, spot herds here and there with a bit of luck. In the following article, I give you a few spots in particular to see the reindeer around Tromso

But going to see them at the Sami camps (the Lapps) is a curious experience. You can feed them, get really close to them, and also take a sled ride. A lovely experience for grown-ups but especially for kids!

• • In the following article, I point you to the Sami farms to see reindeer in Tromso

See the reindeer

Snowmobiling

Here’s another activity that delivers big thrills! Snowmobiling! You’ll need a driving licence, it’ll take you a full day, but you’ll be out in fantastic landscapes riding your mechanical steed.

There aren’t dozens of options around Tromso. And for good reason: you need flat ground, which isn’t common around here. So you’ll mostly head towards the Lyngen Alps and towards Skibotn, in other words two magnificent regions! So you’ll get your fill of thrills AND get an eyeful. Not bad!

• • Discover in the following article all the options to go snowmobiling in Tromso

Book the best snowmobile trip in Tromso!

Exploring the fantastic landscapes

I mentioned it right at the start, there are tons of places to explore in the surroundings of Tromso. Between Kvaloya, the Lyngen Alps, or even every single road, you’re likely to get an eyeful. The best is to take the car, drive at your own pace, stop for photos regularly. But if you don’t drive, then you have the option of discovering it all on a tour. I did it a few years ago, it was lovely. Well, these days I prefer to do it myself, I have to admit.

So off the top of my head, here are the places I absolutely recommend:

• the road to Sommaroy, obviously, and also the archipelago, if the weather’s nice you’ll see gorgeous water!
• the road to Tromvik (and even push on as far as Rekvik), but above all you have to stop at Ersfjord and Grotfjord
• take the road to Skulsfjord and stop at the viewpoint before the tunnel. It’s windy, but the view is insane
• the Signaldalen mountain is unusual and superb
• the Lyngen Alps, among the most beautiful landscapes in the country!
• You can also do a day trip (or more) to Senja

That said, given the lack of public transport, these places require a car to visit.

Otherwise, you can go through an agency, which will take you in a small group to explore Sommaroy or Grotfjord.

I recommend going through Northern Horizon, who have great guides and very good references, or else Jeshua, who gets very good reviews.

Exploring the surroundings of Tromso by boat and going fishing

Exploring the surroundings of Tromso by boat is another way to discover the region, and honestly it’s really not bad at all! You set off for 4/5 hours of sailing across various fjords. You go from the shores of Tromso to Kvaloya, then head south to Ramfjord where you’ll stop to do a bit of fishing. You’ll also cross paths with eagles, maybe dolphins and seals. Several companies offer boat trips with different types of boat.

• For my part I went through Polar Adventure, very good, I recommend it.
  • In the following article I invite you to discover the different options for boating in the fjords of Tromso!

Going fishing with local fishermen: it’s something I did in summer and in the Lofoten Islands. It’s easy to do in Tromso too, though. Quite a few operators offer it, but it’s something different that I can recommend if you don’t get too seasick. It’s fun to do, I think 🙂 That said, it doesn’t come cheap. I only found one operator online, but on the Tromso harbour I remember having seen several posters.

• • An activity to discover here

Hiking in magnificent places!

This region is crazy good for hiking. There’s something for every taste. Easy ones, long ones with big elevation gains, gentle strolls… all in stunning landscapes. I’ll suggest a few below, but I don’t recommend them in winter because of the snow and ice, though some can probably still be done 🙂

• • Brosmetinden: a very beautiful hike, fairly short at 4km, offering a superb view of the mountains around Tromvik and then over the ocean with the island of Senja as a backdrop. Truly magnificent.
  • Floya: this is the walk that starts from the Tromso cable car. I’d advise you to start from the top, as the slope up is steep. But once up there you have a huge open space with lovely views of Tromso and the surrounding mountains. Watch out, lots of wind!
  • Nattmålsfjellet: a great walk that leads you to an insane view over Ersfjord. Ersfjord is the most famous fjord on Kvaloya, and here you can see it from higher up and it’s superb! It climbs a bit but honestly it’s fine.
  • Ørnfløya: do you know Sommaroy? Would you like to see the archipelago from above? Then this walk is made for you! You get a complete view of the islands and Senja. Very easy, 40min of walking. Honestly, really lovely.
  • Sorbotn: so this is a really lovely walk that doesn’t have a name. It starts from the village of Sorbotn, you have to pass under a bridge and follow the river towards the mountains. An hour’s walk into nature later, you find yourself surrounded by mountains and above all with a superb little river, small lakes, an idyllic and very peaceful setting because there’s absolutely no one around

Nighttime activities to do in Tromso

When night falls, you’d think it’s all about northern lights hunting. Well yes, but not only!

Night can come very early, so you might wonder what there is to do at that time. First off, you should know that Norwegians dine VERY early. They start at 4pm. That’s not even happy-hour time. Good grief. So you can have dinner, then head off to hunt the northern lights.

Otherwise, a tip when night comes very early would be to take a little nap so you can head back out full of energy.

You can go grab a coffee + kannelbole in one of the town’s cozy cafés (I talk about it a bit below).

But above all, you have loads of outdoor activities to do at night!

• You can go dog sledding at night, under the northern lights
• Also see the reindeer at night, listen to Sami myths
• You can take a trip up to Fjellheisen, the view over the town is superb
• You can take a stroll on Telegrafbukta beach in the south of the island
• you can go on a boat trip under the northern lights!

Which animals to see in Tromsø

Nature is everywhere around Tromso, and so is the wildlife! It takes a bit of luck, but you can fairly easily see many animals. The big classic remains the reindeer, which wander around a lot, especially in spring and autumn. In winter you’ll more likely see them on a Sami farm. But reindeer are mostly found on Kvaloya, so you could easily spot them 🙂

You can also see moose, but it takes a bit of luck because these animals love the forest (super handy for spotting them) and roam around quite a bit at night. There’s no farming as there is for reindeer, so it’s rarer. I saw a lot of them between Skibotn and Nordkjosbotn, south of Tromso. There are some in particular in the Signaldalen valley. But it’s really, really hit-or-miss.

On the marine wildlife side, you’ll have whales (as in several places in Norway), orcas and dolphins, but it depends a lot on the season. These days the vast majority leave at the end of January, but after that it’s still possible to see some with a bit of luck. In March I managed to see dolphins near Alta, for example. And all year round there are porpoises, but they’re not easy to spot.

You’ll also occasionally have seals. Where I see them most (well, it’s still not frequent) is on Kvaloya, at Kaldfjord, there’s a big viewpoint by the water just before you take the road to Sommaroy.

Seeing the northern lights in Tromso

Tromso is, for me, the best place to see the northern lights. Why? Because the far north of Norway sits under the “aurora oval”, that is the latitude where the northern lights pass by default. Basically, the Earth is protected by the magnetic field, which is weaker as you get closer to the poles, and Tromso is right at the “gateway” of the auroras.

In northern Norway, you can see them from late August to early April. Outside this period, there’s no more night, so you can’t see them anymore. Yet they’re still there 🙂

If you’d like to go through an agency to see the northern lights, don’t hesitate to read the following article, which helps you identify the right agency to see the auroras.

I’ve listed in these two articles the best places to see the northern lights in Tromso:

• The 10 best places to watch the northern lights in Tromso
• tips for being a good aurora hunter

And find all the articles about the northern lights here

And concretely, if you’re ever hesitating with Rovaniemi, the Finnish capital of the northern lights, I offer you my Tromso vs Rovaniemi comparison!

Tips for seeing the northern lights

If you have a vehicle and a wandering soul, then you can go see the auroras on your own. It’s not that complicated if you have a vehicle, it just takes a bit of preparation. I walk you through the different steps of preparing to see the northern lights, but in summary:

• No clear sky, no auroras! So you need to:
  • check the weather, see where the cloudy areas are, and thus find the cloud-free zones, that’s where you’ll be able to see the auroras most easily. To do this, use precise weather apps like Ventusky and Windy
  • be mobile, because if you wait for it to clear up above Tromso, you could be waiting a loooong time! It’s not unusual to have to drive 45min/1h to be in the clear under a starry sky. So you need to rent a car.
• Avoid light pollution: because yes, lights are a nuisance. City lights, roadside streetlamps, trucks going by. Goal: a quiet spot in the dark
• Have a clear view. The auroras are big, they’re wide. And to really enjoy them, you mustn’t block your view.

In the following article, I point you to 10 places to see the northern lights around Tromso

You mustn’t forget a few essential items like heavy clothing, because waiting in the cold and snow isn’t pleasant for everyone. But also things like a thermos of tea, something to snack on while you wait, a headlamp.

So to sum up: check the weather, look at where the cloud cover is, move around, be patient. And then you’ll have good chances of seeing the northern lights.

Alright, if you’re in Tromso without a vehicle and the weather is nice, then you can see the auroras on Telegrafbukta beach or at the Fjellheisen cable car.

Seeing the northern lights with an agency

If you’d rather go through an agency, that works very well too. Even if you have a car, I recommend taking a guide for your first evening, because it comes with quite a few advantages:

• you pick up all the information for going aurora hunting
• you learn how to find your way, which apps to follow
• the guide knows where to go
• and they’re the one driving! So you don’t have to bother with that

Is it mandatory? If you don’t have a car then yes, because as I was saying, waiting for it to be clear and bright in Tromso is lovely but unlikely.

I give you much more information, of course, in the article on the best aurora agencies in Tromso, but here in summary are the ones I recommend:

• Arctic Breeze
• Northern Horizon
• Wandering Owl
• The Green Adventure
• Greenlander

How to get to Tromso

By plane

Very honestly, it’s the easiest and fastest way, especially from Paris (yeah, I know you’re not from Paris if you’re reading the english version :p ). There are now many direct flights, especially in winter (starting in November). And this is exactly the same from all over Europe! Mostly from Germany with a lot of direct flights, from UK, and Poland too.

• Air France
• Transavia
• Easyjet
• Scandinavian
• Norwegian, notably

Direct flights have very variable prices, especially from one day to the next, and by booking early you can pay less than €200 for a round trip. Not bad!

The flight from Paris lasts about 3h40, and it’s super pleasant because as you arrive over Norway the views are magnificent. So above all I’d advise you to grab a window seat! And ideally on the left (for the outbound flight) to get the view over the fjords, the Lofoten Islands, Senja, Kvaloya…

Otherwise there are flights with a layover, usually in Oslo / Copenhagen / Stockholm / Helsinki / Frankfurt. But with the growing number of flights, it’s becoming easy and quick.

If you’re coming from the Lyon area, it can be worthwhile to go through Switzerland. There are direct flights, I believe.

The domestic flight network is excellent with Norwegian and Wideroe, an airline that serves the small local airports in a hop-on, hop-off style. It’s super handy. So don’t hesitate, in addition to the flight comparison tools (I now compare flights on Booking Flights, it’s quite handy), to check out these airlines yourself.

My tip: be flexible with your dates. The price varies enormously from one day to the next. I was thus able to go from €400 to €160 by shifting my flight by 2 days.

Your flight at the best priceTo Tromso!

By car or van

People often ask me whether you can get to Tromso by car or camper van. It depends on two things. First, the season. In winter (i.e. from October right through to May), I very strongly advise against doing it because of the climate. The locals have snow tires that are ultra effective, and for good reason. When it snows, it doesn’t mess around. Example this winter, in the middle of a storm, I covered 60km in 2h30. But honestly, the snow isn’t the most important thing. The snow gets packed down on the road over time, forming a kind of ice layer several cm thick (it easily exceeds ten cm), like permafrost, which takes a very long time to melt. Especially away from the sea where it’s very cold. Which means you’re driving on ice, all the time.

The big issue is black ice, and there you need studded tires.

Otherwise, if it’s in summer, given the price of renting a van in Norway (i.e. very, very expensive), I think it’s a good idea. But the road is long (4 days of nonstop driving to get to Tromso from Paris), so it’s worth it if you have 3 weeks, I’d say.

The simplest is to take the ferry in the north of Denmark (Hirtshals), which brings you to Kristiansand in the south of Norway, and then head up either along the coast (Stavanger, Bergen, the fjords, Alesund, Trondheim, Bodo…) or via the central route, the E6.

Renting a car in Norway isn’t expensive. If you book a bit in advance, you’ll pay between €30 and €40 per day. Very far from the prices in Iceland, for example.

Fuel, it depends on the day. It varies enormously. It can jump by 2NOK all at once (imagine fuel going up 20 cents overnight). So it can be priced like in France, or much more expensive. When you see it at 18NOK or less, go for it, because the next day it could be 22 😀

By train

For fans of the 100% train option, brace yourself, it’s a headache. It’s more complicated, and above all longer. To reach Norway by train, you first have to go through Copenhagen, then cross over to Goteborg and then Oslo.

The Oslo-Bergen route is considered one of the most beautiful railway lines in the world.
But to head all the way north, that’s where it gets funky. From Oslo you can go to Bodo, and from there you have to take either the boat or the bus to reach Tromso. Or from Stockholm, you can go to Narvik. Narvik is in Norway, further north than Bodo, but strangely enough isn’t accessible from the Norwegian lines. Weird, weird. So to reach Tromso by train alone, it’s impossible.

The Hurtigruten

The Hurtigruten, the Coastal Express, is a boat, a true institution, that links all the towns along the coast together. So you can easily reach Tromso from Bergen, Bodo, Andenes… you can choose to do just a short leg or the “full works”, which runs from Bergen to Kirkenes, on the border with Russia.

When to go to Tromso, what’s the best season

It all depends on what you’re after. If you want the northern lights, even though they’re visible from late August to early April, I recommend two periods:

• autumn: mid-September until the end of October. Or rather, until the first snowfalls. Because you can go hiking, you have the auroras, you have the autumn colours and a still-decent climate, with always enough daylight.
  November has weather that isn’t bad, little light, so it’s a period that lets you make the most of it, go for walks and see auroras. A half-and-half that on top of it lets you see the whales.
• winter: from late January to mid-March, for decent weather and above all some daylight. January is fine and much better than December, which generally combines rotten weather and a lack of light.

I’ll go into detail season by season below, but here’s a little summary:

• the start of the endless days, it rains quite a bit, it snows too, the weather is fine, you get absolutely everything including the snowmelt and gorgeous colours
• summer: paradise for outdoor activities and hiking. The weather is pleasant, it’s lovely! And it’s not an expensive season, which is great.
• autumn: a very beautiful season, blending nature and northern lights, the days aren’t too short yet
• winter: the snow, the auroras, all the activities, the whales and orcas are there. And loads of snow, it’s really cold too. Super season!

I’ll give you much more information in the image below, but also in the following article to find out when to go to Tromso.

Travelling to Tromso in winter

When you think of Tromso, you inevitably think of winter. The snowy landscapes, the winter activities, the mountains and the northern lights. And that makes sense! The far north is buried in snow!

In winter, you have all the main activities we talked about. Dog sledding, snowmobiling… you can do sporty activities like snowshoeing or cross-country skiing, it’s really super lovely.

In terms of weather, expect snow, lots of it (especially in March) and cold, especially in January. We’re talking temperatures below -10, sometimes down to -20 at night if you head inland.

In terms of daylight, late December is the winter solstice, so veeery little light. It’s the polar night. But it comes back fairly quickly; from mid-January there are 5 hours of good light and it climbs by almost an hour a week.

So it’s the prime period, but also the most popular! It’s touristy in town (though you find yourself alone in nature quite easily). But since it’s touristy, you need to prepare well in advance and plan for:

• accommodation
• car rental
• activities

What to do in Tromso and its region in summer

Tromso in summer (that is, from June to August) is nature, nature and a good dose of nature. The Tromso region is a huge playground for hiking and soaking up the landscapes to the full. Because fortunately there’s no (too much) snow left and you can go pretty much everywhere.

There are quite a few advantages to coming in summer:

• it’s not too expensive
• far fewer people
• for the nature-crazy

That said, I don’t recommend visiting only Tromso. In fact, do also head off to visit Senja! It’s a gem, and it’s not far. And if you’re staying 10 days or 2 weeks, take the chance to also head to the Lofoten Islands. It’s more touristy, yes, but it’s truly incredible.

So in Tromso during this period, as I was saying, the activities are more limited and more nature-focused. But it’s really worth it! Personally I love:

• endless hikes. Refer to my section on hikes to know what to do (I suggest 5) but it’s a huge playground
• touring the superb landscapes by car:
  • head to the island of Kvaloya (the road to Sommaroy and its fine sandy beaches, Grotfjord, Ersfjord…)
  • to the Lyngen Alps, which are magnificent and where you can also hike
• Take a boat tour in the fjords; there are no whales but it’s really great fun. And you can even go fishing with a local!

Tromso in autumn

I used to go to the north of Norway only in winter, but that was before. In 2020 I discovered Tromso, the Lofoten Islands and Senja in autumn and it’s truly magnificent. It’s a different vibe, you won’t have the snow and all its activities, but there’s an enormous amount to do and plenty of advantages.

I’ll write you a more detailed article, but in autumn, that is from mid-September to mid-October roughly, you’ll have the superb autumn colours, nature turning orange and flourishing. That, that’s magnificent. Then at this time of year you obviously have the northern lights. And since there’s no snow, all the hikes are accessible, all the high viewpoints, tons of physical activities. Is it better than winter? Honestly it’s a different vibe, something completely different, but with the auroras.

Climate and temperatures by season

In winter, it’s freezing! But it’s a dry freezing. Meaning that, unlike a good thick damp cold that gets into your bones, here the cold is dry and much easier to bear.

There are two different climates, I find. By the water, it never gets really very cold. Between -5 and -10, rarely less. But possibly with a lot of wind. It’s bearable.
On the other hand, as soon as you move away from the sea, you enter temperatures worthy of Lapland. Very quickly you’ll drop a good ten degrees and even more. In Senja for example, last year, I had -5/10 in the fjords but -35 at the entrance to Anderdalen park. A proper deep freeze.
In Tromso it’s a bit the same. In town or on Kvaloya, it never gets very very cold, but if you go into the Breivikeidet valley or towards the Signaldalen, there you can gently lose a good twenty degrees.

Spring and autumn, you should rather expect 0-10°, quite a bit of rain, possibly snow, you can get absolutely everything.

Summer varies enormously between 5 and 30 (but more reasonably 10 and 20). So it’s totally unpredictable, it’s one of the country’s surprises!!

The best sites for the weather are Ventusky and Windy. Not the easiest to read, though. You’ve got Yr.no which is less precise but easy to understand.

Midnight sun and polar night

It’s the special feature of countries in the far north (and also the far south): there are two periods that I find really lovely. The midnight sun is the sun that never sets. It’s not just having daylight during the night, it’s really the sun at 2-3am. And it’s funny because it gives you crazy energy. You can have an aperitif until midnight, wake up in bright sunshine at 4am and your body goes “woohoo! it’s late!”. It’s a funny sensation. You can wear an eye mask, it can come in handy.

Third week of May, you see the sun sink, sink down to graze the horizon and rise again without setting. Really pretty to watch!

The polar night is… well the opposite. The sun no longer rises, no longer clears the horizon. You get a bit of light for a few hours. On 21 December, the longest night, it really is dark all the time. It can seem depressing, but it’s fun to see too. Conversely, the body is all sluggish. As soon as it gets really dark, poof, you want to sleep, it’s crazy how much the body depends on light. You get used to it over time. But the upside is that you can have your aperitif at 2pm! The downside is that you can’t really make the most of the landscapes.

You might think the midnight sun is preferable to the polar night. And yet, when I ask the locals which they prefer, they can’t choose. That’s also why they stay put, especially in the far north.

What to do in Tromso in bad weather, rain, snow

Right, you go to Tromso mainly for the outdoor activities, the landscapes, the hikes, the snow activities like dog sledding and all that, to feast your eyes under the auroras.

But it happens (sometimes!) that the weather is rotten. It’s the weather I have right now that’s making me write this paragraph haha 😀

And when the weather is rotten, like heavy snowfalls, rain from a big thaw, clouds so low you can’t see anything, then you’ll still have a few options:

• the Polarmuseet museum on the polar expeditions from the days of seal and whale hunting
• Polaria, a museum/research centre on the Arctic
• visit the Ice Domes of Camp Tamok, an ice hotel you can visit in winter (logically)
• have a drink at the Magic Ice Bar, an icy bar in the city centre
• have a coffee at the super-nice cosy café Smørtorget (careful, their sofas are addictive) with a kannelbole!
• or one of the best pastries in town at Selfie Konditori
• the new Troll museum, but it’s expensive for what it is
• you can go cross-country skiing in winter around Prestvannet
• enjoy the floating sauna Pust in the port of Tromso!
• or the swimming pool Tromsobadet with sauna, steam room and great comfort
• otherwise there’s also a fairly psychedelic indoor minigolf

The map of the most beautiful spots in Tromso!

Since that’s a lot of information, I’ve made a map with everything you need to know about Tromso:

• the most beautiful spots
• the places to see the northern lights
• the hikes
• fjords
• activities like whales, dog sledding, aurora agencies…
• cafés and restaurants

For each one, there’s a photo, a rating and the prices, so you can choose and compare at your leisure.

I explain in the following article how the Tromso map works.

⭐️ Click here to enlarge the map! ⭐️

Where to stay in Tromso

Finding a hotel

• In this article about hotels in Tromso, I go into detail on lots of hotels, family apartments and places to stay with prices by season.

Okay, sorry to spoil the suspense, but staying in Tromso is expensive, and it’s gone up a lot in recent years. First because it’s Norway, but also because Tromso’s hotel supply is limited while tourism keeps growing.

First of all, there’s a huge difference between low and high season. For example, between March and April, prices drop threefold.

I’d say there are two categories of hotels. The low-cost ones that run between 120 and 200€ a night in high season (around 60/70€ in low season), and the super comfortable ones that can climb from 200 up to 400€ a night in peak season (but genuinely slash their prices in low season).

Since I travel here a lot, I’ve had to sleep in pretty much every hotel in town (except the latest one that just opened, but that won’t take long). And to be clear, I’ve always paid and was never invited:

In the low-cost hotels, here’s what I recommend

• Enter Viking Hotel
• Enter Backpack
• Ami Hotel

In the more comfortable hotels, you generally get better bedding, a great location and an insane breakfast. Here are my recommendations:

• the Dock 69’39 by Scandic, it’s THE new reference, the best reviews and in the new waterfront district
• the Scandic Ishavshotel, a great view over the sea, the town and the mountains across the water. The best breakfast in town?
• the Clarion The Edge is a reference
• the famous Radisson Blu, you’re never disappointed

Don’t forget to check out this article to learn more about all the places to stay in Tromso!

If you want a bit more space while staying in the city centre, you can find apartments. Sure, it’s still expensive. But the big ones can be split between 4 to 6 people, let’s take a look.

• There’s this lovely little apartment for around 130€
• For something a bit more spacious there’s this beautiful house at 220€.

Even though I really love Tromso’s city centre, these days I regularly stay outside in quiet spots, mainly to get easy access to the northern lights. The downside is that you have to drive a bit to find something to eat haha 😀

But here are the lovely places to stay around Tromso, which I find ideal for enjoying nature and the northern lights:

• The Malangen Resort, on the Malangen peninsula south of Kvaloya, ideally located, in a place with very little civilisation, perfect for the northern lights. The hotel offers various activities and has an excellent reputation!
• The Sommaroy Arctic Hotel, located, as the name suggests, in Sommaroy, an idyllic archipelago right at the tip of Kvaloya. The setting is fantastic, the hotel very good, and plenty of spots to see the aurora nearby if the sky is clear. It’s also great if you’re heading to Senja the next morning!
• The Yggdrasil farmhotel retreat & spa, a cottage on the south coast of Kvaloya to be really left in peace. A calm and cosy place, truly lovely!

Find your dream accommodationIn Tromso !

4 recommended places to stay in Tromso

Find your dream accommodationIn Tromso !

Getting around the Tromso region

There’s a good bus network connecting all the towns to each other (Tromso, Andenes, Finsness, Alta…) all year round, but for the shorter distances (Tromso-Sommaroy for example) it’s more complicated. Especially in winter. Check the timetables carefully on this site.

Basically, the buses aren’t made for sightseeing. One bus leaves Sommaroy in the morning (to go to work) and comes back in the afternoon. So it’s impossible to do a round trip in the same day.

You have 2 essential planners for public transport (buses, trains, ferries):

• entur.no the go-to planner in Norway, super handy and clear
• Svipper for routes and all the information on transport in northern Norway. You can also pay with their app

The simplest option is still the car. And driving here, even in winter, stays easy because the cars are very well equipped for it. You’ll just need to avoid sudden moves and keep your safety distances. In the next article I explain how to drive in winter in Tromso

Discovering Tromso and its region without a car

If you don’t have a car during your stay in Tromso, it can be a slight handicap but not that much. In fact, all the lovely points of interest in town are reachable on foot, or at worst by bus, and with the various excursions you can absolutely discover the region.

The only issue lies in the weakness of the bus network for reaching the spectacular spots on Kvaloya or around Tromso like the Lyngen or the Signaldalen. There simply isn’t one.

I explain all of this in much more detail in the next article on discovering Tromso without a car

Renting a car in Tromso

Renting a car in Tromso is the best option for making the most of nature. Booking early enough, it’ll cost 30€ a day, and you’ll get something very decent. There’s no need to take a big car because, first, the speed limit is between 60 and 90km, second, small cars are very well equipped, and finally the roads are in very good condition. So a Polo or equivalent is more than enough, even in winter.

Careful though, if you book late, it gets extremely expensive, over 100€ a day, and stock is limited, so there’s always a risk of nothing being left.

If you’re planning to take the small roads, you’ll need a little 4×4, ideally an SUV.

• in the next article I give you all the details for renting your car in Tromso. Which agency, what prices, what conditions.

I’d still recommend having: automatic transmission, unlimited mileage (you can cover quite a bit of ground even when using it as a base), watch out for the boot size if you have a lot of gear, and air conditioning. A gadget that’s a real treat in winter is heated seats.

It’s more convenient and generally cheaper to pick the car up at the airport (Tromso Langnes). But run some simulations, it’s better to book in advance, and above all compare. To compare I use two comparators a lot: Discover Cars (super clear) and Booking.com, which has integrated the well-known Rental Cars.

Rent your car at the best priceIn Tromso !

Driving on snow

Even if you’ve never driven on snow or ice, that shouldn’t stop you from renting a car up there if you want to. Honestly, the car rentals are excellent. You’ll get top-notch winter tyres, sometimes studded, that grip the road incredibly well. I’ve run tests taking steep tracks, and it works fine.

For driving, the basic rules are to keep even bigger safety distances because braking distances are longer. Don’t make any sudden moves, no jerky movements, no hard braking or accelerating, otherwise you’ll skid.

But the roads are cleared regularly. As soon as it falls, they bring out the heavy artillery and they’re very effective. As soon as a road gets too snowed-in or dangerous, they close it. Simple as that.

So no, have confidence, if you know how to drive, you’ll know how to drive here; with caution and common sense it’s OK. But if you’re not feeling it, really don’t force yourself.

• I give a lot more explanation in this article on driving in winter.

Parking in Tromso

Okay, if you have a car, another cost not to forget is parking. Because the whole centre is paid and far from cheap! But the huge advantage is that there’s an eeeenormous car park under the hill. Because, clever as they are, they optimised the island’s space by digging under the hill and putting several roads and a big car park down there. That said, it’s pricey, 4€ per hour at peak times and 2€ off-peak (6pm-7am + Sunday). The upside of this car park is that you can pay by card. Because there are other small outdoor car parks, as well as on certain streets, where you pay via an app, Easypark, and you have to clear the snow yourself. So for the same price, I prefer the underground car park!

But to park anywhere on the island and pay, there’s the Easypark app. It shows you all the available spots and you can pay directly by entering your licence plate. Super handy!

If you need more information, don't hesitate to ask me by clicking here 🙂How can I help you ?

Practical information

How long to stay in Tromso

Honestly, it depends on your goals. Here are a few different scenarios:

• Northern lights goal: I recommend 5 days minimum, a week is good. That lets you do the activities, discover the region, and have chances of a clear sky. In particular I suggest this one-week itinerary in the region.
• If you’re planning a road trip between Senja, Tromso and the Lofoten Islands, then I recommend a minimum of 10 days. 2 weeks is very good indeed, more is just a bonus, letting you alternate landscapes, activities and hikes.
• In summer, it’s mainly for the hikes and the landscapes. So 3/4 days is fine and then lets you move on to Senja.

Budget for planning your trip to Tromso

It’s not always easy to figure out how much a stay in Tromso costs. There’s a lot to budget for:

• flights fluctuate and you need to book early, expect anywhere from €150 to €600
• accommodation is the worst, prices triple in high season, from €60 to €300
  • here are some tips for finding a hotel in Tromso
• car rental runs between €30 and €50 a day
• while activities are pricey, between €100 and €300 per person

In the following article you’ll find a simulator to calculate the costs of a trip to Tromso .All you have to do is enter the number of people, and the calculation happens automatically.

Cost of living in Tromso

It’s very expensive. At the supermarket it’s a bit pricier than back home, as if we were always doing our shopping at the corner store at 3 in the morning, so gently 20% more. But honestly, it’s fine if you don’t go overboard. And here’s a tip: at Extra, they mark down their ready meals every evening. It’s greasy, it’s Norwegian, but it’s hot and not that bad. Like the taco-baguette, true story.
Drinks are much more expensive, whether at the supermarket or the restaurant.
Restaurants were originally very expensive, but with immigration (Italians, Asians…) opening new, rather good-quality restaurants, prices are dropping quite a bit. Before, in Tromso, it was hard to find a dish for under €25/30. So with a drink and dessert that came to €50 per person for something ordinary. Now you can find dishes for €15. But the really good restaurants stay very expensive, over €50 a head, some at €80.

The main tourist activities in Tromso don’t come cheap and cost more than €100. On the other hand, nature is free. And it’s the best activity of all 🙂

Then, for those in the know, the pleasant surprise is that it’s cheaper than Iceland, for example.

By the way, in the following article I tell you which payment methods to use in Tromso so you don’t spend too much on bank fees.

How to get from Tromso airport to the city center

It’s pretty easy, especially since the airport is really just a few minutes from the center. You have 3 options that aren’t too expensive:

• a taxi will cost between €20 and €25
• the local bus (lines 40 and 42) takes 25 minutes; you buy the ticket at the machine by the stop or on the Troms Mobillett app
• the Flybussen express bus, more expensive but faster, with tickets bought at the machine in the airport. Schedules and fares here.

Safety in Tromso

You’re going to feel really at ease here. As in all the Nordic countries and everywhere else in Norway, crime is nonexistent. Tromso is a very safe city. Granted, in winter there’s nobody hanging around outside, which helps. But you can leave your car unlocked with things inside, no problem. You can leave your phone on the table at a restaurant when you go to the bathroom, no worries at all.

Luggage storage for dropping off your bags

So apparently there’s a luggage storage at Tromso airport. That said, I’ve never actually seen it 😀 But it’s supposedly 60 NOK per day, which is fine.

Otherwise, in the city center, if you can’t leave your bags at your accommodation (if you’re not staying in a hotel, for example), you have 3 luggage storage options:

• in the Jekta shopping mall (ground floor, across from Egon, next to the escalators)
• on the 3rd floor of the Nestranda shopping mall in the city center
• on the 1st floor of the ferry terminal

Internet and Wifi

Norway is included in European mobile plans, both for data and for calls. The 4G coverage is excellent throughout the Tromso region (ok, throughout all of Norway) and better than in my Paris apartment. And finally, you’ll find wifi available pretty much everywhere just in case.

Payment methods

In Tromso you can pay for absolutely everything by card; it’s the default payment method, and paying in cash will honestly be a bit of a nuisance. Tips can also be given by card. It’s new, it’s offered every single time, even when it’s absolutely not necessary. And I’ll admit it’s a tad tiresome.

Ride-hailing and taxis

In Tromso you’ll find taxis, which are expensive, and also Uber. Even though fares are regulated, taxis are nonetheless starting to charge somewhat depending on the customer’s face. So, it’s sad, but I recommend making sure there’s a meter, choosing an official company, or otherwise taking an Uber, which has the merit of showing the price up front, no funny business.

Other resources on Tromso

I’ve written quite a lot about Tromso. The following articles should interest you, at least I hope so!

• A one-week itinerary in Tromso: a ready-made itinerary to see the essentials and do the best activities
• Where to stay in a hotel in Tromso: I point out the interesting accommodations, the good deals
• What to do in Tromso in winter: because there’s a lot to do, I point out the must-do activities and the good agencies
• The best spots to see the northern lights in Tromso: here I point out the best places to go on your own, in Tromso or nearby
• The best northern lights guides in Tromso: so you don’t get it wrong, I point out the best agencies and guides to be (almost) sure of seeing the lights!
• The map of the most beautiful spots in the Tromso region: on a Google map I put all the places to see, the practical info, the accommodations
• What’s the best month to go to Tromso: here’s an infographic showing you which activities are available month by month, the pros and cons, in short, when to go
• Budget: how much does a trip to Tromso cost: here are all the prices for every expense (flights, car, accommodation…), and a simulator to give you an idea of the cost of your stay
• The best dog sledding mushers in Tromso: here’s a selection of the good dog sledding agencies in Tromso, with plenty of tips
• Where to go snowmobiling in Tromso: find here all the essential info to book your snowmobile excursion in Tromso, and don’t forget your driver’s license
• When to see whales and orcas in Tromso: I give you all the information for seeing the cetaceans, the good periods and which boat to choose
• What to do in Tromso in summer – midnight sun, hikes and fjords when the nights never fall
• What to see in Kvaloya: discover this gorgeous island across from Tromso with some of the most beautiful spots in the region, like Sommaro

And here are a few practical links:

• Rent a car in Norway with Discover Cars
• Find your accommodation with Booking
• All the activities in Tromso with Getyourguide
• Find your Paris – Tromso flight with Air France