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- Visiting Tromso with or without a car, pros and cons
- Can you really visit Tromso without a car?
- The main places to visit in and around Tromso without a car
- Plan your routes
- Tromso Island without a car, on foot or by bus
- Discover Kvaloya by bus – Tromvik, Sommaroy or Ersford
- Discover the island of Kvaloya with an agency
- See the northern lights in Tromso without a car
- Other activities in Tromso
- Sample itinerary for a car-free week in Tromso
- Where to stay in Tromso
- Practical information
Would you like to make a trip to Tromso but are wondering whether it’s possible to visit the city and surrounding area without a car?
Well, it’s not necessarily the easiest way, I grant you, but there are possibilities. No train, a few buses, agencies to take you around, you’ll be able to manage to discover some of the most beautiful places, like Kvaloya Island.
I’ll also tell you how to see the Northern Lights in Tromso itself, and what you can do if you want to get out of town, including through an agency. Here we go!
Visiting Tromso with or without a car, pros and cons
Advantages and disadvantages of having a car in Tromso:
- + you’re not dependent on agencies
- + you can hunt for the Northern Lights on your own
- + you can discover the landscape as you please
- – if you’re in town, you need parking, which can be expensive
- – if you wake up late, renting a car can be expensive.
- So it really is freedom! Which can get expensive fast
Advantages and disadvantages of being car-free:
- + if you have planned lots of activities, then you don’t really need a car, or just a day or two
- + it saves you money
- + no stress on the road (even if driving up there is actually super simple)
- + no hassle of finding (and paying for) parking
- – what you save in the car, you spend in agencies
- – the bus network to get out of Tromso is bad, very bad
- – you can’t see the northern lights every night outside Tromso (and that’s the main problem)
Can you really visit Tromso without a car?
Absolutely!
If you don’t drive (or don’t want to), that’s okay. A car isn’t essential, especially if you’re busy every day!
For example, if you’re staying for a week and you’ve got a program..:
- dog sledding
- snowshoeing
- reindeer watching
- snowmobiling
- take a boat trip or see the whales
As you can see, you’re already busy for 5 days. So over a week, it’s not bad. And then there’s the Fjellheisen, the city tour.
If you’ve got plenty of activities, the only advantage of having a car is that you can go and see the Northern Lights every evening for yourself.
There, I’ve said it.
On the other hand, you should know that discovering Tromso’s surroundings and most beautiful places by public transport is complicated. It really is.
Only one bus to Sommaroy, and even then, it’s impossible to get there and back in a day. Same for Tromvik. No bus to Signaldalen, for example.
So you can discover some of them with an agency, you can spend a night in Sommaroy, take the bus to Ersfjord. But the options are really limited
After that, Tromsdalen, Ersfjord, Kvaloysletta are all accessible by bus with a good network.
But otherwise, I hear a little voice saying “what about hitchhiking?” Well, I’d say that with the low frequency of people on the road, you’re likely to find yourself in April at the thaw. It can work, the locals won’t let you out… if they’re passing by. And it’s not part of the local culture
In summer, when there aren’t any organized activities, it’s more difficult because the hikes are outside town and the starting points aren’t served by bus.
The main places to visit in and around Tromso without a car
If you come to Tromso, it’s mainly for the surroundings, the scenery, the Northern Lights and all the winter activities. But in the city there’s a lot to see, too, because Tromso, as well as being a pretty little town, has a long history of fishing. In this section, I’ll only cover what’s on offer in the town itself. For the rest, the surrounding areas such as Kvaloya, which can be reached by bus or on foot, will be covered below:
- the center, with its typical streets and charming wooden houses
- the harbor, of course, with its many restaurants
- Polarmuseet, the museum of polar expeditions and arctic hunting. Small but very interesting
- Polaria, a more or less interesting museum/science center/aquarium where you can learn more about Arctic life
- Magic Ice Bar, an ice-cold bar in the heart of the city
- Fjellheisen, the best view of the city after taking the cable car (or going up on foot)
- the Arctic Cathedral, just across the bridge (which has a superb view, by the way), the interior is not essential
- Telegrafbukta beach
- Lake Prestvannet in the center of the island
Outside you’ll find :
- Ersfjord fjord with bus 425
- the pretty Sommaroy archipelago, but you’ll need to sleep there (tip: the Sommaroy Arctic Hotel) via buses 420 or 422
- some interesting return boat trips (Tromso Lysnes, for example)
Plan your routes
Super important up there if you don’t have a car, you need a trip planner. There are 2 for this region:
- Svipper.no, which is the transport planner for the Tromso region. Works very well
- Entur.no, the reference throughout Norway
I admit I prefer Entur for one simple reason: it’s easier to read. The information is the same, the results identical, but Entur is clearer and in addition to giving bus routes, they also give walking routes, so sometimes you’ll see that it’s not better to take the bus.
After that, they’ve just redone Svipper, which is brand new and beautiful, so it’s very practical too
Tromso Island without a car, on foot or by bus
Tromso Island is quite large, but you can concentrate on the city center, with the north not being particularly interesting and the west having the airport and shopping malls. So you won’t need to go too much.
From the center, places like Telegrafbukta require a 40-minute walk. So why Telegrafbukta? Well, for one thing, it’s a nice beach with a lovely, unobstructed view and, as we’ll see below, it’s a great place to see the Northern Lights.
To get to Telegrafbukta, take bus 33 from the center (15-minute bus ride). If not, it’s a 45-minute walk, as it’s only 3km away. But frankly, it’s quite easy. Except in the snow/rain.
Another nice spot on the island is Lake Prestvannet, right in the center. You have to climb a bit, or take bus 28. It’s a 10-minute bus ride or a 25-minute walk (1.5km).
But if you want to get to Polaria, the Polar Museet or the Arctic Cathedral, it’s all within easy walking distance.
- Polaria is a hair’s breadth south, but only a 10-minute walk from the center.
- the Arctic Cathedral is a little further away, a good 20 minutes, mainly because you have to cross the huge bridge (make sure you take the pedestrian lane, not the cyclist one!).
- Polarmuseet is in the center
- the Fjellheisen cable car is a little further away, 40 minutes from the center, 15 minutes from the cathedral
So really, there’s no need to worry about transport on the island of Tromso, it’s all easily done on foot.
Especially as the bus costs 41NOK per journey. That’s a lot of money! But you can take a weekly ticket.
Bus timetables, maps and fares
On the Svipper.no website, which manages buses in the Tromso region, you can plan your journeys, buy tickets and view the timetables for each line. Here are the various links:
- To buy bus tickets, there are several options:
- Points of sale, SMS… everything is explained here
- the application
- attention, fares are VERY variable (from €2 to €6), find out more here
- The different routes and timetables can be consulted on this page
- And the general page with all the information can be found here.
Discover Kvaloya by bus – Tromvik, Sommaroy or Ersford
Now it’s getting complicated. The 3 main places to see in Kvaloya are Ersfjord, Sommaroy and Tromvik (well, mostly via Grotfjord). And we’re going to see that it’s not easy to get there because of the relative frequency of the buses.
- Ersfjord, the very pretty fjord near Tromso, is accessible by bus. It takes 50 minutes and you have to take 2 buses. First the 420 from the center to Kvaloya, then the 425 to Ersfjord. Easy to do, not too long. There’s a bus every hour or so, with the last departure for Ersfjord at 7.50pm. The last departure from Ersford to the city center is at 8.50pm. So you can easily get there by bus to spend a few hours, but you won’t be able to spend the evening there to see the Northern Lights. It’s a shame.
- Sommaroy, the archipelago at the end of Kvaloya. Obviously worth a visit, but… There’s the 420 bus from the center of Tromso to Sommaroy. In this direction, it takes 1h40 and there are only 3 departures a day (and even then, on weekdays!), between midday and 4pm. In the other direction, to return from Sommaroy, there are also 3 departures, between 6:30 and… 14h. In other words, you can’t make the return trip in a day. The only solution is to stay overnight. Except in summer, when it’s possible to make the return trip in the same day (always the 420 bus).
The best option is to spend the night! You get there in the early afternoon, and leave the next afternoon, so you’ve got plenty of time. And you can stay overnight at the lovely Sommaroy Arctic Hotel. - Tromvik and Grotfjord: this route is also superb. Tromvik is a nice little village, but the highlight is Grotfjord fjord (or the village of the same name, which is also quite nice). And here it’s even worse than Sommaroy, because there’s only one bus to get there and only one to get back. And they’re obviously not synchronized for sightseeing. So it’s totally impossible, sorry! It’s bus 425.
Discover the island of Kvaloya with an agency
I’ll be honest, going to Tromso and not visiting Kvaloya is a shame. Because it’s really beautiful. I’ve outlined everything you can do in Kvaloya here, so you can see a bit of what it’s like, but you MUST see Sommaroy and Grotfjord. They’re magnificent. And the roads leading to them are well worth the detour. Mountains, fjords, valleys, great views. So I think we’ve got to find a way to see it all.
If you don’t drive, we’ve seen that by bus it’s particularly complicated (if not impossible). That’s why there are a few agencies offering day trips to discover Kvaloya.
These excursions are by minibus, for between 4 and 8 people, and cover the 2 main roads in Kvaloya: to Tromvik, Ersfjord and Sommaroy. In other words, all you need to see, and it’s not bad for a day trip.
It was my first group outing in Tromso during my first stay, and I really enjoyed it. It’s a great way to discover the area without any pressure (for me, it was the stress of driving on a road I didn’t know). That’s why I recommend this outing 🙂
Discover Kvaloya by boat!
This is another great way to discover Kvaloya! We embark on a boat that will take us around the fjords, seeing the island’s mountainous landscapes from another point of view, and it’s not bad at all.
The route may depend on the weather, but the idea is to see the different fjords of Kvaloya. Some people also offer fishing, so why not!
See the northern lights in Tromso without a car
See the northern lights without leaving Tromso
Well, as I always say, to see the northern lights you need :
- an unobstructed view
- be away from city lights and roads
In Tromso, that’s no easy task. In the heart of the city, it’s hard to see the aurora unless it’s strong. If you go to the harbor, on the shore, you can get a nice view if they’re dancing. But the lights do spoil it a bit.
However, if the sky is clear in Tromso, then we’ve got a few sure things, 3 possibilities:
- Lake Prestvannet, in the center of the island. It’s high up, with an unobstructed view, but there’s still a lot of light around. Not my favorite place to watch the aurora, although a nice spot.
- Telegrafbukta beach. In my opinion, this is the best place in town to see the northern lights. It’s relatively far from the lights of the city, away from the center, and above all, it’s got a great unobstructed view! You’ve got north, west and Kvaloya in the background. It’s a really nice spot
- Fjellheisen cable car. A fantastic view of Tromso Island and the Kvaloya mountains behind. Really, it’s beautiful, and if the auroras are out, it’s magical. However, there are a few drawbacks: you have to pay to go up, or climb on foot (not very practical in winter, but doable without snow), and it’s very windy up there. After that, it’s still a great place to be.
- At the airport, when you cross the road, there’s a very large, unlit area facing Kvaloya. It’s really nice.
- Otherwise, the rooftop of Clarion the Edge, a nice bar, high up, which can give an interesting view if you don’t get out of the city.
See the northern lights with an agency
But in practical terms, you might want to see the Northern Lights outside the city if you don’t have a car. There are several reasons for this:
- it’s cloudy in Tromso, but there are opportunities outside the city (very common)
- to optimize our chances of seeing the northern lights
To do this, we go through one of the city’s many agencies. There are many of them, not all of them equal, but they allow you to see the aurora without having to worry too much. They’ll look for the right places according to the weather, they’ll drive for long distances (even as far as Finland), and some of them will teach you how to take photos.
You’ll find all price ranges, so here are my recommendations:
- Trusted agency (from 140 to 2000€), small groups only, excellent guides and great feedback:
- If the above agencies are fully booked, then I also recommend
- Finally, for those on a smaller budget, there are the bus excursions (around €100), which are more crowded but less expensive:
Don’t forget that you can get more information on how to choose an agency to see the Northern Lights in Tromso. Group size, guides, criteria to look out for
Other activities in Tromso
So in Tromso itself, there are a few possibilities. Usually you’ll have to go through agencies, but some things like skiing can be done on your own. Let’s take a look.
Skiing in Tromso
Cross-country skiing in Tromso is easy – you don’t even have to leave the city. Just go to the top of the island and there’s a track. There’s also a trail in Tromsdalen, via bus 26, which you can find here.
For downhill skiing, there are small slopes in Kroken, the Tromso Alpinpark. You can rent your equipment directly on site, see here. A day costs NOK 370.
Go snowshoeing
Without a car, you won’t be able to snowshoe in Tromso, unless you use an agency. Unlike cross-country skiing, there are no dedicated trails in town. Suitable areas are to be found in Kvaloya and Breivikeidet, for example.
For that reason, I advise you to take a trip with Wandering Owl, an excellent sports agency with excellent guides for snowshoeing in particular.
Dog sledding
The good thing about these activities is that we pick you up right in the center of town.
Dog sledding is one of Tromso’s winter must-dos. Of course, you need snow, a good little layer so as not to damage the doggies’ paws. So here you can start in November/December and continue until April, sometimes May.
It’s really nice, the dogs are adorable, well treated (important) and above all they love what they do. They’re made for running.
Find out more about the best dog sledding spots in Tromso!
See whales and orcas
The whales and orcas are no longer in Tromso itself, but a little further away in Skjervoy. We can take you there either by boat or by bus.
Whales and orcas can be seen in the area from early November to, normally, late January. At the time of writing, however, they’re making an extra appearance in the first week of February.
It’s always a wonderful time and something I’d recommend. There are several options, but the one I prefer is Brim’s electric boat, which is comfortable and, above all, more respectful of the animals.
Find out more about whales and orcas in Tromso
Snowmobiling
There are also plenty of opportunities to go snowmobiling in Tromso, and to take in the sights at the same time. After all, you can snowmobile through some sumptuous landscapes. In the Lyngen Alps or in Tamokdalen, i.e. surrounded by mountains!
You’ll need a driver’s license to go snowmobiling in Norway, but if you do, it’s something I recommend, because it’s fun and a lot of fun! On the other hand, it’s not cheap (from 200€).
Find out more about snowmobiling in Tromso
Seeing reindeer in a Sami camp
That’s fun, especially if you have kids! (Well, it’s fun for grown-ups too!). Reindeer are emblematic of the region, and frankly, cool animals. A bit clumsy, they’re totally attracted by food (sounds like me), so on this activity you can feed them and get up close and personal.
You can also go sledding. It’s a bit flatter than dogs, but it’s fine for kids.
Find out more about reindeer in Tromso!
See the Ice Domes
In winter, Camp Tamok builds its famous ice domes. An all-ice hotel (hence the name, in fact), with bar and restaurant, for living at -5°.
You’re picked up in the town center, then treated to a guided tour, a meal, a cold drink in the bar, and the chance to say hello to the reindeer!
Sample itinerary for a car-free week in Tromso
So we’ll see that it’s still possible to make a nice itinerary when you don’t have a car, to discover Tromso and its surroundings over a week. The idea is not to charge you for every conceivable activity, but to take the ones you want and try to see some of the countryside too 🙂
- Duration: one week
- Recommended accommodation: Radisson Blu, for its breakfast, bedding and location.
Day by day :
- Day 1: Discover the city, the center, the little streets, the polar expedition museum. End with a coffee at the cosy Smørtorget café.
- Day 2: A day of dog sledding, to be discovered here
- evening : See the northern lights at Telegrafbukta
- Day 3: Take the bus to Ersfjord, stop first at the high viewpoint, then walk down to the water’s edge, have a coffee at the kaffebrenneri, return by bus (watch the timetable!).
- evening: go see the northern lights outside the city with an agency, to be discovered in this article.
- Day 4: Discover Kvaloya with an agency to see fjords like Grotfjord, then go to Sommaroy, to be discovered here.
- Day 5: Take a whale watching / fjord trip, depending on the season, discover here
- Day 6: Visit the reindeer at a Sami farm, find out more here, then go to the Fjellheisen cable car for coffee and a delicious tart.
- evening: watch the northern lights from Fjellheisen (watch out for the wind!)
- Day 7: If you still have a free day, you can go cross-country skiing in town, or why not go to the Tromso Alpinpark ski center!
This is just a small example that’s easily adaptable. However, I’d advise you to try and alternate days with a big activity and something more leisurely the next day.
As for the Northern Lights, it depends mainly on the weather, but in town the two best places to see them are Telgrafbukta beach (also very nice during the day) and Fjellheisen. You can go there every evening, weather permitting, but otherwise the easiest thing to do is to go through an agency, which is also more expensive.
Where to stay in Tromso
Discover all the best accommodation options in Tromso
I’ll tell you about it in the article above, but without a car you’ll have to sleep on the island of Tromso. And I recommend the hypercenter for practical reasons.
There is a number of solutions for this, but the big problem with Tromso is that the hotel offer is excellent, but limited in relation to the number of tourists. It fills up fast! So it’s also quite expensive, especially in the peak tourist season. Out of season, it’s reasonable.
So, with all that in mind, I’d recommend these quality, city-center hotels, with good bedding and breakfast (essential in my opinion):
- Scandic Ishavshotel, my favorite
- Radisson Blu, a sure bet
- Thon Hotel Tromso, the best bed and breakfast, but not on the waterfront
- Smarthotel for low prices
Practical information
How to get to Tromso
Getting to Tromso by plane is super simple. The airport is served by many cities (Bergen, Oslo, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Helsinki, Frankfurt…), so you often only need to change planes once.
Prices vary enormously, so make sure you compare (I use Kayak, which is reliable). Be careful, as it’s all the rage to offer prices without luggage, which then inflates the bill. And prices vary a lot from one day to the next!
To come by train, you’ll need to come either :
- the Oslo – Bodo line
- the Stockholm – Narvik line
And then take the 100 bus (3 per day from Narvik, at 5:30am, 1pm and 3:30pm) for a 4-hour journey. Tickets can be booked on the transport app, and cost around €41.
From the airport to the city center
Once at Tromso airport (located only a few minutes from the center), there are several ways to get to the city center:
- cabs cost between €20 and €25, but there is a surcharge at night and on weekends
- the local bus (lines 40 and 42), which takes 25min. Tickets can be purchased via the Troms Mobillett app or at the terminal at the bus stop
- the fast bus, Flybussen, for which you can see timetables and fares here, the ticket is bought at the terminal in the airport
Conclusion
That’s it! I hope I’ve answered all your questions. You can discover Tromso without a car; the main points of the city are easily accessible on foot. However, if you want to explore the surrounding countryside, the bus network shows its limitations and you’ll have to use agencies.
Just as the main activities can also be done on excursion, the good thing is that they’ll pick you up at the center. You can estimate the cost of your trip to Tromso here.
I’d say that if you want to get the most out of Tromso without a car, it’ll cost more than with one, because you’ll have to take excursions (which are great! but not cheap), but it’s quite possible 🙂
