Bergen in short

• How long to stay in Bergen :
  • if you stay in Bergen : 2/3 days
  • If you want to visit the surroundings : 5/7 days
• Do you need a car to visit Bergen
  • if you stay in Bergen: no
  • If you want to visit Bergen Area, check Discover Cars
• Where to stay in Bergen :
  • Radisson Blu Royal
  • Scandic Torget
  • City box for the best low price hotel
• Best day cruises from Bergen
  • Mostraumen
  • from Bergen to Flam
  • to Fjaerland
  • to Naeroyfjord
  • Naeroyfjord + Flam train
• Most beautiful places to see
  • Bryggen
  • Floyen
  • Nostet, Nordnes Peninsula
  • A nice walking tour from past to present

After a stay in Tromso, On my way back to Paris, I had the opportunity to spend 2/3 days in Bergen. It was a bit special because it was in the middle of a pandemic and therefore completely empty of tourists. Self-evidently, it was great to be able to enjoy Bryggen absolutely alone, but on the other hand, very few activities were available. Cruises stopped, buildings opened for a few hours a day. But it was a unique opportunity to take the time to enjoy the town, discover the little streets, smell the Bryggen woods.

Bergen is truly one of Norway’s most beautiful cities, the gateway to a fantastic region of fjords, high plateaus and mountains. And even if you have to visit it with a few more tourists than during my stay, it’s a city that’s undeniably worth a visit. I’ll explain it all in detail below 🙂

Why visit Bergen

So yes Bergen is ultra famous, touristy and all that, but you have to look beyond the Bryggen docks to really enjoy it, and there are many reasons to go and stay a few days. But I only had to take out 3:

• It really is a beautiful city, the Norwegian city as you’d imagine it, with its wooden quarters.
• It’s the gateway to the fjords, accessible by boat or train from the city.
• You’ll feel right at home here, with plenty of opportunities for outings, restaurants and walks.

Bergen history in brief

The city of Bergen has a relatively recent history, but it quickly became an important part of the kingdom.

Founded in 1060 by Olaf III the Quiet, it became Norway’s capital not even a century later. And in such a short space of time, it witnessed the coup d’état of Harald IV, the assassination of his son Sigurd II and the coronation of Magnus V.

But what really makes Bergen’s history is the arrival of German merchants from Lubeck, who were in the process of creating the Hanseatic League, an entire trading network to facilitate exchanges between several trading posts in Europe.

This league is to some extent the essence of the city, with the Bryggen district in particular. Here’s a description of Bergen at the time by Danish and Norwegian soldiers, taken from Wikipedia:“This city is the most famous in the country, embellished with a royal fortress and with the relics of many virgins; the body of Saint Sunniva rests here, on an elevation in the cathedral. There are also several monasteries and convents. A huge number of people live in the city, which is rich and overflowing with goods. Dried fish is available in impressive numbers. Ships and men arrive from all over; there are Icelanders, Germans, Danes, English, Greenlanders, Swedes, Gotlanders and other nations too numerous to mention. All nations can be found here if someone takes the trouble to look.There’s also plenty of wine, honey, flour, fine clothes, silver and other goods, and busy trading for everyone.”

Until the 18th century, there’s a real monopoly on trade, with ups and downs as certain kings try to put an end to it and regain control. And although it saved the country during epidemics, notably the plague, this situation prevented the country’s commercial, economic and agricultural development, as everything was imported in exchange for fish, which came mainly from the Lofoten Islands.

1. The old quarter of Bryggen

The first sight of Bergen is this cluster of houses and warehouses on the city’s quayside.

Originally created by the fishermen who belonged to the Hanseatic League, these buildings were their living quarters, as well as their places of trade, since Bergen was a very important trading post in this network.

But Bryggen has had a turbulent history, not least because of the fires that have ravaged the town and district on several occasions, most notably in 1702, which destroyed 90% of the town.

The fire of 1955 also destroyed 3/4 of Bryggen, which was not rebuilt, but restoration work has led to some fine discoveries, notably medieval runic inscriptions, which have served as the basis for the museum.

Visit Bryggen

Bryggen is Bergen’s most popular tourist destination, and a must for all self-respecting visitors and many cruise passengers. So, inevitably, in high season, it’s not the most pleasant place to be, and it’s hard to make the most of it. The second time I visited Bryggen, it was at the height of the tourist season in Norway, and there was absolutely nobody there. I was very lucky to be alone, very lucky to have this district to myself, to be able to take full advantage of it, to discover some very nice little places.

Bryggen isn’t big, it’s 3/4 aisles, but full of little details, a really captivating smell of wood, and above all the possibility of going to the 1st and 2nd floor by a little staircase, and there it’s really top notch.

My advice if you’re visiting Bergen in high season would be to go there at the very beginning of the morning, before the boats, before the first tourists. You’ll be able to enjoy it more or less normally

The Hanseatic Museum

The history of Bergen and the Hanseatic League is well documented in the Hanseatic Museum. Spread over two buildings in the heart of Bryggen, it shows how merchants worked, lived and traded with the rest of Europe. It’s interesting because it’s really what makes Bergen Bergen, how the city became THE trading post for this association, the main port.

The museum is housed in two historic buildings in Bryggen, the oldest of which is currently being restored as it is gradually sinking. So there’s a lot of work to be done to raise it. This is one of the reasons why all the buildings are not straight and look as if they were made by Numerobis. The work is expected to last until 2024, so only part of the museum is still available. But it’s still something to do, I think.

2. Getting lost in other parts of downtown

Bergen, then, is a historic Norwegian city and one of the most beautiful, if not the most beautiful (it’s a battle with Alesund!).

So you really have to make the most of it and wander around the different districts. Whether it’s the little quarters with the wooden houses or the more recent areas, this is a city where it’s great fun to walk.

So go ahead, take your time, don’t be like the cruisers who only pass through Bryggen and miss out on the essence of the town.

The Vågsbunnen district and Nedre Fjellsmauet

Vagsbunnen is a surprising mix of genres. Of course, you’ll find the pretty wooden houses that give the town its charm, but you’ll also find more recent art nouveau-style buildings, colorful storefronts and tiny streets that are extremely charming, especially at night.

The beautiful Nordnes peninsula

Right in the center of Bergen, there’s a very pretty peninsula heading northwest. It’s a must-see haven for several reasons. Firstly, there’s a lovely view over Bergen Bay. It’s nice because in the city, you can only see the boats. Secondly, it’s very quiet, with lots of green spaces and small parks, so it’s great to stroll around and take your time. But above all, it’s really beautiful. Magnificent wooden houses, ultra-cute streets, cobblestone streets, especially on Rue Ytre Martkeveien, and the aquarium, which I hear is great fun, especially for kids.

4 excellent accommodations in Bergen

The wooden houses of the Nøstet district

Not quite as chic as Nordnes, but at least as beautiful. Dozens of narrow streets with wooden houses and pretty little squares, it’s great fun to get lost.

Don’t go there with a map, just take a street at random and follow your whims – it’s the best way to discover the area. The street not to be missed is Strangebakken, really cute (and with cats, just saying).

A little to the south of this district, go and see Sydnessmauet, Dragefjellsbakken and Teatergaten. It’s superb, a wonderful little square.

A guided tour of Bergen

The advantage of visiting Bergen in the middle of a pandemic was that I had the city to myself. The downside was that I was so alone that the guided tours weren’t open. Visiting a new city with a local is something I appreciate, to go beyond the “oh it’s pretty, ah yes I like it” and read the paper guides, get the anecdotes, the little fun facts of history, in short to get a real knowledge of the city. So if you have a little time (about 2h here), it’s something I encourage you to do if, like me, you want to know more about the city. And the good thing is, it’s cheap. 20€ for 2h, frankly, that’s fine!

• Find out more here!

The other option is the tourist bus. With a“drop on/drop off” ticket, you hop on and off whenever you like along the itinerary. Handy if you’re short on time.

• Find out more here!

Discover bergen on foot!

3. Bergenhus fortress

Bergen is home to Norway’s oldest and best-preserved medieval building : the Bergenhus fortress, with its Hakon Hall, Rosenkrantz tower and star-shaped fortifications (a bit like Vauban), dating from the 13th century and partly rebuilt after the Second World War, which had its moment of glory during the Battle of Vagen (Vagen being the entrance to Bergen harbor), featuring the English and the Dutch, as usual.

The Dutch dominated the seas at the time, with a monopoly on the riches of Asia (through the Dutch East India Company). Except that things weren’t going so well with the English, who held the English Channel.

So the Dutch had to return home with a monumental treasure, bigger than the English GDP at the time. But they didn’t really feel it, so they decided to go north around England. The English learned about the treasure and about Bergen.

So they tried to intercept the fleet, but failed. So they tried to block the Dutch in Bergen harbor, except that the English captain managed to beach his ship in the bay. A champion.

The Norwegians decided to remain neutral. For one thing, they don’t have a big army, and the English and Dutch aren’t really their business. But… a treaty originally existed between the Dutch and Norwegians. The English king knew it, so they proposed to the king of Denmark-Norway to attack the Dutch and divide the spoils between them. But not officially, so as not to put the treasure into the national accounts.

The King of Denmark-Norway was not too keen, but agreed, sending a messenger to his troops to say “we don’t agree, but we’ll let it happen, don’t hit the English”. But the messenger never arrived, and was intercepted by the Dutch, while the English were also waiting for Norwegian orders on who to hit. On the Dutch, on the Norwegians, on both?

One morning, the English started attacking, with the wind against them, so they get all the smoke from their fire, which isn’t great for visibility. But a cannonball hits the Norwegian fortress and 4 people died. Well done.

Inevitably, the Norwegians didn’t really enjoyed it, so they retaliated and cannonaded the English with what little means they had. With the superior firepower of the Dutch, the English were routed after 4 hours, scoring 500 deaths against… 25 for the Dutch, 8 for the Norwegians. So much for efficiency.

But that wasn’t the end of it! 4 days later, orders from the King of Denmark FINALLY arrived in Bergen. So the Norwegian captain who had been cannonading the English had to change his mind, and went to see the few remaining Englishmen, and offered to do it again, and that this time the fortress of Bergenhus would not bombard them.

The English captain politely refused, not willing to take another beating. Especially as 90 Dutch boats arrived to lend a hand. No, that’s all right, thanks.

In the end, the Dutch cargo was able to leave almost unharmed, although two ships were captured by the English.

Rosenkrantz Tower

This tower is the country’s oldest medieval monument. Currently under renovation, I don’t have any photos of the exterior to show you (unless you’d like to see a large blue tarpaulin).

It dates from the 13th century, under Magnus VI the Lawgiver, but is named after a 16th-century governor, Erik Rosenkrantz. So is it worth a visit? Well, I’d say it’s interesting, but not crazy. It takes 45 minutes to visit, and many of the rooms are rather empty, but there are plenty of information panels on the history of the town, the Battle of Vagen, etc. It can be visited independently of Hakon Hall.

King Hakon’s Hall

The Hakon Hall is a great hall… a hall built under King Hakon Hakonsson, hence the name, probably. It’s got a very nice Gothic exterior, which also dates back to the mid-13th century.

As nice as the exterior is, the interior is not at all period, and for good reason. During WW2, the Dutch ship ST Voorbode was confiscated by the Germans and used to transport 124 tonnes of explosives from Oslo to Kirkenes. But a problem forced the ship to stop in Bergen for repairs. Except that the mechanics, who had no idea what was in the cargo, failed to take the necessary precautions to repair the engine, causing it to explode.

All that remained of the Hakon Hall were the walls, the entire heritage destroyed. The ship’s anchor was found 3km away, at an altitude of 400m, on a nearby mountain, causing a tsunami and killing 160 people. All this to say that the interior is no longer of the period, the visit isn’t amazing and goes by very quickly.

4. See and walk the view from Floyen

The best view of Bergen is easily accessible from the city center, either by streetcar or on foot.

It’s a bit strenuous, as it’s 300m uphill, but it’s easily done. From there, you can continue to walk on the mountain with several hiking trails, notably to Ulriken, 13km away.

It’s also a great viewpoint for the sunset, weather permitting. The trip with the Fløibanen costs 50NOK, or around €5, but is included in the Bergen Card.

5. Fresh air in Ulriken

Ulriken is the highest of the 7 mountains surrounding Bergen, at no less than 643m. And just as well, since it’s easy to get there, you can go hiking, see the mountain lakes, in short, be far from the city without really being far from it.

You have to get off at the Kronstad station, walk 10 minutes and take the cable car to the top. You can also get there on foot, but it’s quite a hike, so you can reach Floya in 13km from Ulriken. And if you like, you can go with a local guide, more info below

Hiking around Bergen

6. Fantoft’s standing wooden church

In Norway, there are many churches very specific to the country, called Stavkirke or standing wood churches.

These superb churches date back to Viking times and the beginning of their Christianization, and one can be found in Bergen. Well, rather a reproduction, as this Fantoft stavkirke has a sad history.

Dating back to 1150, it was burnt at 6am on June 6, 1992 by Norwegian extremists celebrating the anniversary of the Viking sacking of an English church in 793, considered to be the first step in Scandinavian expansion.

These extremists also had an unfortunate habit of killing each other. Anyway, the church was rebuilt identically, using the methods of the time, and has been protected ever since.

It can be reached via the Fantoft streetcar station (20 minutes from city center) and via a small path through the woods, which is very nice. Admission is charged, but it’s only open for part of the year, usually until October 1st. So it’s a shame I was a bit late. However, you can take a tour outside and enjoy its architecture and distinctive smell.

7. Cruise the fjords

Bergen is the gateway to the fjords. You don’t have to take a car and drive for days to see the fjords. Well, you can do it and you will enjoy it a lot! But you can also discover many of them directly from Bergen.

So if you don’t have a lot of time, this is the perfect solution.

I give you absolutely everything in the following article, all the day cruises in the fjords from Bergen. Like :

• From Bergen to Flam
• Bergen to Fjaerland
• Osterfjord and Mostraumen
• The Naeroyfjord

Let’s say the two classic cruises are the one to Mostraumen and the one on the Naeroyfjord. But for the Naeroyfjord you need to go there by bus or first go from Bergen to Flam.

But now you have more possibilities. You can discover the beautiful Fjaerland directly from Bergen (that’s a long ride, but you need to see it), you can take the ferry to Flam too. Not every month of the year, but it’s possible during spring and summer!

Osterfjord – Mostraumen

Another great trip is to the Osterfjord north of Bergen. 3-hour boat trip with the Rodne company, drinks and snacks included, for around €66.

• Information and booking

8. Eat well!

Norway is the country where you spread salsa sauce on pizza, with pineapple, the country of brown cheese, Coke mixed with wine and pickled herring for breakfast. Gustatively, it’s always a bit complicated.

And yet, in Bergen, you can eat well. It’s expensive, very expensive (more than in Tromso), but frankly it’s good. It’s the first time I’ve had a really good pizza in Norway (at Villani).

At the fish market you’ll find good fish restaurants (logical) and there are also some good Norwegian cuisine restaurants like To Kokker, 1877, Marg & Bein. These are really expensive (between 60 and 100€ per person) but they’re good and have a very good reputation.

Another nice thing about Bergen is that there’s life after 5pm 😀 there are cafés open (really not bad, much more than in Tromso), bars, and even people outside. Which is amazing for Norway

9. Norway in a Nutshell

Perhaps the most popular activity in Norway (along with the Northern Lights!).

Norway in a Nutshell is a one-day tour that takes you to some of the country’s most beautiful places. Starting in Bergen, you’ll enjoy a boat trip in the fantastic Naerofjord, the Flam train and then the train from Myrdal to Bergen.

These two lines are considered to be among the most beautiful in the world. In practical terms, it can be a long day, but you’re clearly in for a real treat.

The Naerofjord is my favorite fjord in Norway, the Flam line is really impressive and you cross the high plateaus of the region. There’s only one company offering the “real” Norway in a Nutshell, and that’s Fjord Tours. But you can get inspired to do it yourself and take more time.

You can also find other tours in Bergen below, but there’s also an equivalent offering a day with :

• a premium cruise on Naeroyfjord
• Flam
• Stegastein viewpoint
• Tvindefossen waterfall

With guided tour and transport.

• Discover this activity here

In the following article, I explain how to get from Bergen to Flam by train or boat

découvrez les activités

10. Other activities in Bergen

The fish market

It used to be a real market, a real fish market, but now it’s more a collection of fish restaurants than anything else. So it’s good, but expensive. But we have the advantage of fresh produce

Statsraad Lehmkuhl

The Statsraad Lehmkuhl is a pretty 3-masted boat that regularly anchors in Bergen harbor. You can visit it, I think.

Well, it’s best to rent it by the day, but I’m not sure that’s in your vacation budget. It’s worth a look when you’re at the fortress or Bryggen.

Troldhaugen

Troldhaugen, which means troll mound, is in fact the home of Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg, which was converted into a museum and concert hall in 1985. It’s located in the Paradis district, right next to the valley of the trolls (trolddalen). I haven’t visited it, but the reviews are very good, if you’re a classical music fan.

4 recommended activities in Bergen

See the Northern Lights in Bergen

Well sorry, but Bergen is really not a good place to watch the Northern Lights in Norway. It’s possible, but it’s rare because the city is located too far south of the northern oval.

So it could happen when the activity is really strong, a KP5, but not an everyday activity. What’s more, you’ll have to get out of the city, which is very bright because of the port. Why not go to Floya or Ulriken, or a little to the north of the city. But if you’re going to Bergen, the Northern Lights shouldn’t be a goal, just a surprise in case.

Accommodation in Bergen

Bergen is expensive. Before talking about hotels, I did a little research for apartments and it’s pretty good. On offer, expensive but not too much, around 100€ a night without too much difficulty in the city center. But in high season, you really need to get in early.

Tip: the CityBox Hotel offers excellent value for money. Off-season it’s around 80€, in high tourist season around 120€

For my part, I stayed at the Scandic Torget Bergen for around 80€ a night, but that was in the middle of a pandemic, so the prices were very low, which isn’t really representative.

I highly recommend this hotel, which runs between €100 and €140, with its excellent location, great staff and top-notch breakfast

As for hotels, accommodation in the center is expensive. Between low and high season, prices rise by up to 40%. The prices I’m going to give you are for the high season, so don’t be (too) scared.

The majority of very good hotels are between €120 and €180 a night. And these are the classic Norwegian hotels: Scandic, Radisson, Clarion and Thon. These are Norway’s best values, and they’re all extremely well placed.

But you’ll find even nicer hotels (between 180 and 250), superb 5* hotels like theHotel Norge or theOpus XVI in a top setting.

If you look hard enough, you’ll find less expensive and not necessarily far from the city center, with good value for money between €70 and €100 for the Scandic Bergen City or the Ornen, the Bergen Budget Apparthotel (not great but not expensive) or the Citybox, which has a very good reputation.

Finally, you can find cute little guesthouses like the Marken Guesthouse or the Annehelen.

Sleep by the fjord, in a fisherman's cottage or at a low price? It's possible!Find your dreamy accomodation !

Practical information about Bergen

How long to stay in Bergen

Well, it depends! In Bergen city center, there’s a lot to see, a lot of neighborhoods to visit, and it’s a very pleasant city to wander around. So I’d say at least two days if you’re not planning to do anything like go into the fjords.

But you can add a cruise in the fjords or the great Norway in a Nutshell outing, in which case 3 days in Bergen are not a too much. After that, you can easily stay longer, enjoy the city and its surroundings, and be sure not to get bored

Visit for less: the Bergen Card

And here, I was very stupid. I didn’t take it. I thought “gneugneugneu another discount card for tourists”. Well, that’s exactly what it is, in fact if you make several visits, you save money.

It’s interesting depending on what you want to visit (Hanseatic museum, floibanen, aquarium, fortress…), which are included, as well as quite a few discounts, notably for transport.

It’s not always profitable, and for a day when you’re mainly going to wander around the city, it’s not necesary. From 2 days and 2 activities, it can become interesting.

In low season, you’ll have to be careful, as the museums close very early. In short, I’ll leave you to discover it here, but it could be a good plan, depending on what you want to see. Note also that for a good part of the year the map is not available as the elements are closed

What’s the weather like in Bergen

So it’s in Norway, but we’re not going to have the same thing as in Tromso, for example. In winter, it’s never going to be very cold, a tad negative at worst, but nothing crazy.

On the other hand, it’s very humid. Snowy, but nothing like what you get up north. According to the locals, there’s a lot of rain as soon as you leave the summer.

It’s oceanic, windy and rainy, so in the same way it’ll never be too hot in summer, but it’ll be nice and pleasant. For the weather in Norway, I really recommend the Yr.no app or website

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When to go to Bergen

Inevitably, we’re going to think of summer, but in summer it’s full of people. It really is. Bryggen is difficult to visit (except early in the morning), and I really didn’t find it that pleasant, even if it is beautiful. At this time of year, there are a lot of cruise ships in addition to the “classic” tourists.

On the other hand, in summer you can easily get away from the city and discover the fantastic surrounding area. The big advantage of summer is that Bergen can be the starting point for a great stay in the fjords. Discover lots of ideas for summer itineraries in Norway here!

A good period is from early September to mid-October. It’s not too cold, the weather’s not too rainy and there are fewer people. In winter, the days are very short, but that’s the charm of winter with snow, so why not.

Getting to Bergen by plane

It’s super simple, Bergen is connected to virtually all major European cities.

In France, there are direct flights from Paris with Air France and Norwegian. There are also flights from Nice. Otherwise, you’ll need to make a stopover in Oslo. Air France usually costs €150 return. But with their twice-yearly promotions, you can find flights for €100.

The main companies flying in Europe to Bergen are Norwegian, Wideroe, FlySAS, Lufthansa has also a lot of flights to Norway.

And as always, compare prices. Look at the prices with Air France (as they fly there from us), then with a comparator. I use Momondo and Kayak for my part

To avoid paying a fortune, it is essential to compare flightsFind your flight at the best price!

Getting to the city center from the airport

The airport is not close by, but there are plenty of ways to get to the city center:

• the streetcar, called Bybanen, takes 45 minutes and costs just 40NOK. And it’s included in the Bergen Card!
• the bus, Flybussen, is faster (30min) but more expensive. 150NOK if you buy in advance.
• Cabs cost between €50 and €80, but prices vary enormously depending on the time of day. There are daytime hours (9am to 3pm), “almost nighttime” hours (6am to 9am and 3pm to 6pm) and then nighttime hours.
• private shuttles to pick you up. I’ve seen them, but frankly they cost the earth, so I’d rather not tell you about them.

The train from Oslo

One of the most beautiful train journeys in the world is between Oslo and Bergen. 6h30 of pure bliss, between mountains and notably in the superb Hardangervidda plateau.

It’s not cheap – around €100 – but it’s well worth it! There are 4 direct trains a day, and you can book tickets via VY.no

Rent a car in Bergen

So no, to visit Bergen, you don’t need a car. The city center is small, there’s a very efficient transport network (the streetcar works superbly) and on top of that, having a car in Bergen costs an arm and a leg to park (and there’s a congestion charge), so if you’re staying in Bergen, there’s no need to rent a car.

If you want to get away from the city, or if you’re simply going on a roadtrip from Bergen (for example, the Bergen – Alesund – Bergen loop), then yes, of course you need to rent one.

Renting a car, if you get in early, isn’t expensive. Starting at €25 a day, I recommend you compare prices. I’ve been using Discover Cars for some time now, and I’m very satisfied with it (in Norway and elsewhere). You can compare and book directly on Discover Cars. Be careful about unlimited mileage.

From the end of October you will have winter equipment, until about the end of April.

If you need more information, don't hesitate to ask me by clicking here 🙂How can I help you ?

Conclusion

We’re going to have a lot of fun getting lost in the city, in the little streets among the wooden houses. Bergen is a pretty, timeless stroll, very pleasant and full of surprises if you leave the city, for example by ferry to the fjords or Flam.

It’s possible to spend only a day here to really see the essentials, but that would be a pity, as it’s a really pleasant city. Whether it’s for a weekend, on your way to or from the fjord region, come to Bergen, you won’t regret it:)

⭐️ Don’t forget that you can find ALL my articles on Norway here