Visiting the Pink Granite Coast in Brittany

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What a gem! People talk a lot about the various coasts in Brittany. Pink Granite Coast, Emerald Coast, Coast of Legends… that’s quite a list. Lots of superlatives, and I kept thinking “yeah yeah, pink granite, yeah yeah, turquoise water, sure.” Boy, was I wrong!

Since I didn’t really know Brittany, I had to find out whether these reputations were deserved or not. So I set my sights on the Pink Granite Coast, which seemed ideal for settling in for a nice quiet week and discovering the region. Beautiful villages, a magnificent coastline, a spot that isn’t too touristy, great food — indeed, it seemed to have everything going for it.

And I can tell you it was an absolute favourite! The region is simply magnificent, the Pink Granite Coast really is pink, the old saying that it always rains there is false, you can walk it on foot with enormous pleasure because it’s one of the most beautiful stretches of the GR34, and you’ll come across some of the most beautiful villages in France, like Ploumanac’h!

Right then, let’s discover what makes this place so unique!

Because the Pink Granite Coast really is pink

Because yes, the Pink Granite Coast lives up to its name rather well. It’s an ochre pink whose shade varies with the weather. But do you know why? Why this unique colour and these very specific shapes?

A very, very long time ago, at a time when magma — burning beneath the earth — slowly cooled until it finally solidified. That’s how granite is born. And in this granite, three components coexist: quartz, mica and feldspar (bless you).

Each has its own colour, but here it’s feldspar that’s mainly responsible. This feldspar has a little peculiarity: it has a pink colour. And not just any pink — it’s the one you find all along the Pink Granite Coast. While it’s normally a white material, here, as almost nowhere else in the world, it turns ochre pink. This is mainly due to all the impurities found in this feldspar.

Only three places in the world have this very particular rock colour: China, Corsica, and the Pink Granite Coast!

And to make it all even more spectacular, nature decided to play sculptor for millions of years. Wind, rain, waves… they all took turns shaping these rocks and creating this unique landscape we can admire today. We’ll see it further down, but around the Men Ruz lighthouse you’ll find some quite exceptional rock formations, and also near Trégastel where there’s a great big balancing rock.

Visiting Perros-Guirec and the Pink Granite Coast
The Pink Granite Coast, truly pink

For a stunning walk on the GR34 along the Pink Granite Coast

People talk a great deal about the customs officers’ path, a trail that runs all the way around Brittany and is now a major long-distance hiking route — one of the most famous, and rightly so, because it’s one of the most beautiful in the country!

And well, it passes right through here, right across the Pink Granite Coast! The section running from Trestraou beach in Perros-Guirec to Trégastel is, honestly, one of the most beautiful in all of Brittany. Eighteen kilometres that will take you through the most photogenic spots on the coast, with the sea sometimes at your feet, sometimes visible in the distance between two pink rocks.

Concretely, you’ll pass the Men Ruz lighthouse around the 4th kilometre, cross through the village of Ploumanac’h, walk along Saint-Guirec and Bastille beaches, before reaching the Renote peninsula and the beaches of Trégastel. A route that lets you see the most beautiful spots on the coast, one after another.

Don’t fancy walking 18 km in one go? No problem. You can do sections by car — there are well-placed car parks at the Men Ruz lighthouse or in Trégastel — and alternate between walking and driving. For the return, local shuttles let you get back to your starting point. No more excuses about being tired!

customs officers' path Perros-Guirec
Men Ruz lighthouse Brittany

To visit Ploumanac’h, one of the most beautiful villages in France

I sometimes say that the “most beautiful village in France” labels are a bit overused. But for Ploumanac’h, awarded the label in 2015, it’s clearly deserved. This little village nestled between the pink rocks and the sea has something magical about it, born both of the raw beauty of the landscape and the authenticity of the place.

There’s a little chapel at the edge of the beach, an oratory that almost has its feet in the water at high tide, pink granite houses that blend into the scenery. We’re far from the overly tidy, showcase villages. Here, everything is natural, a little rugged, and it puts you in the mood straight away.

Of course, the beaches are there too. Saint-Guirec beach is really lovely, surrounded by that pink rock, translucent water, very pale sand. But I’d advise you to carry on a few dozen metres to reach Bastille beach, tiny, almost hidden, with an unbeatable view of the Castel Beau Site castle sitting on its islet. It’s one of those beaches where you think “ah, this is where I’d like to stay for hours.”

Just north of the beaches, the Men Ruz lighthouse is a must-see spot. The surroundings are really top-notch: beautiful rock with surprising shapes, stones balancing inexplicably, and when the light hits the granite at sunset… get the camera out. I went there almost every day during my week on the coast, and I’d gladly go back.

Saint-Guirec beach Ploumanac'h Brittany

Perros-Guirec, Brittany’s relaxation break

Perros-Guirec is the main town on the coast, and an excellent base for exploring the whole area. What’s nice here is that you have everything on hand: the best places to stay on the Pink Granite Coast for every budget, restaurants, shops — and yet you’re still a stone’s throw from the wildest nature.

Trestraou beach is the big beach in Perros, and it’s really beautiful. It’s also the ideal starting point of the GR34 towards Ploumanac’h. But Perros-Guirec is also the departure port for excursions to the Seven Islands archipelago — I’ll come back to that just after.

Between us, Perros is also an excellent base for getting around. A few minutes’ drive gets you to Ploumanac’h, ten minutes to Trégastel. And if you want to explore the Côtes-d’Armor further, you’re well placed. I’ve written a complete guide on all the things to do in Perros-Guirec if you want the details.

Customs officers' path Perros-Guirec
Trestraou beach Perros-Guirec

Trégastel, its beaches, and the Costaérès Castle

Trégastel is often in the shadow of its neighbour Perros-Guirec, but wrongly so. This seaside village is really charming, with an exceptional setting and a slightly more peaceful atmosphere. And its beaches are among the most beautiful on the whole coast.

The walk between the Coz-Pors and Grève Blanche beaches is a must. Crystalline blue-green water, very pale sand, pink rocks as a backdrop… a setting that has nothing to envy of certain Mediterranean destinations. And if you continue towards the Grève Rose a little further north, you’ll be surprised by sand with slightly pinkish tints, a curiosity in itself.

The Costaérès castle is worth lingering over. This neo-Gothic medieval-style building from the late 19th century sits on a small rocky islet a few hundred metres from the beach. It’s private, so you can’t visit inside, but its silhouette at sunset is absolutely striking. What’s nice is that at low tide, from Tourony beach, you can reach the islet on foot. A little adventure accessible to everyone. But do keep an eye on the tide for the way back! (experience talking here :D)

Trégastel beaches Côtes-d'Armor
Castel Beau Site castle Pink Granite Coast

Seeing the beautiful colours of the Renote peninsula

The Renote peninsula, just north of Trégastel, is a world of its own. This tongue of land surrounded by pink rocks and whipped by the wind offers landscapes of a gentle wildness (I really like that term, I can’t remember where I read it) very different from the beach atmosphere.

You walk among the rocks, watch the sheep grazing peacefully, and at the end of the day you come across dozens of rabbits popping up out of nowhere. It’s strangely exotic for a place located only ten minutes’ drive from Perros-Guirec.

The light at the end of the day over Renote is truly exceptional. The pink of the rocks takes on orange tints with the setting sun, and if you have a camera, you’ll come back with a full memory card. Allow an hour and a half to two hours for the walk, with time to stop often. And you will stop often, I guarantee it.

Renote peninsula Trégastel
Renote peninsula Trégastel

For a nature break in the Seven Islands

Off the coast of Perros-Guirec lies the Seven Islands archipelago, a set of islets and rocks that are completely preserved. Access is regulated because it’s a national nature reserve. And that’s just as well, because this isolation has allowed an exceptional biodiversity to develop there.

Boat excursions departing from Perros-Guirec let you sail around the archipelago. And there, you’ll see colonies of Atlantic puffins, northern gannets, European shags and other marine species that are extremely rare on French coasts. For nature lovers, it’s a truly incredible experience. Seeing several thousand birds on a single rock leaves you speechless.

The boats also pass by the rocks along the coast, which lets you see the Pink Granite Coast from the sea. A completely different perspective, and just as impressive. An outing I really recommend, even if you’re not especially a fan of birdwatching.

puffins the Seven Islands Perros-Guirec
Rouzic island gannets Perros-Guirec

To feel the heart and soul of Brittany

The Pink Granite Coast is rich in history and legends. Between the medieval chapels hidden in the vegetation, the mysterious menhirs standing up towards the sky and the ancient ruins steeped in history, each place tells part of Brittany’s rich past. Let yourself be captivated by the local legends peopled with korrigans and other fantastical creatures, which will add a magical, mystical dimension to your journey. A great opportunity to dive into the authentic soul of Brittany.

For example, did you know that between Ploumanac’h and Perros-Guirec lies the Traouïero valley, the lair of the Korrigans?

During a stay you’ll also find many menhirs, such as the Saint-Uzec Menhir. Small towns like Tréguier will also let you immerse yourself in the Breton soul. But not as much as the forest of Brocéliande, said to lie near Paimpont, home of Breton myths and legends, with the fairies’ mirror, a lake where, at certain times of day, the fairies are said to appear.

Tréguier cathedral
Valley of the Saints statue Brittany

An ideal base for discovering the rest of the region

It’s a simple thing, but by staying in Perros-Guirec, I was able to very easily discover a good part of the Côtes-d’Armor and push further into Brittany (you could even go as far as Saint-Malo). Because really, you’re close to everything! We were talking about heritage earlier. Just over an hour’s drive away, you can visit the superb Valley of the Saints, which, with its hundreds of saints represented, will for future generations be the most important site of Breton heritage.

We’re also close to the pretty little town of Paimpol, a truly charming port that’s worth a visit, but also to the Bréhat island, which you explore on foot after a lovely boat crossing!

Coming back to heritage, several castles can be seen in the surroundings. For example, the Tonguédec castle and its eleven towers, or the Gothic castle of Roche-Jagu. And also Fort la Latte, a Vauban-style fortress where the film The Vikings was notably shot in 1958.

So from the Pink Granite Coast, if you want to explore other areas, it’s super easy! And I haven’t even mentioned Finistère, its white sand beaches and its rugged coastline, just a few kilometres away (okay, I haven’t talked about it yet because I don’t know it well enough, for now!).

The Valley of the Saints in Brittany
Craca windmill Paimpol
Port Lazo Paimpol Brittany
Paimpol harbour

Quite simply because you feel good there and eat really well!

There are some things you don’t really try to explain. Quite simply, you feel great in this part of Brittany. Through its unique landscapes that go so well with this ever-changing weather, at once perfect for enjoying the superb beaches but also capable of offering very dramatic skies that make the Pink Granite Coast so photogenic.

You feel good there because nature is preserved, the coast is superb, the sites aren’t over-urbanised as you might see elsewhere. It’s lively without too much fuss. It’s simply the ideal place to settle in and… both laze about and enjoy Brittany!

Oh, and between Perros, Ploumanac’h and Trégastel, you’re also lucky enough to eat really well. What I particularly loved was the chance to find an endless number of local producers, either directly at their workshops or in their shops in town. Terrines, seafood, caramels or ciders — you might come back with the car boot full (which works out nicely if, like me, you have a big boot).

Pink Granite Coast Brittany
Pink Granite Coast

In conclusion

The Pink Granite Coast is one of those places that surprises you, holds on to you, and that you leave telling yourself you’ll come back. It’s not a marketing stunt or an overrated reputation. It’s real, it’s beautiful, it’s authentic and unique.

Whether you come to hike the GR34, settle on the beaches of Trégastel, photograph the rocks at sunset or simply eat well while watching the sea, you’ll find what you’re looking for here. And probably more than that.

More resources on Perros-Guirec and Brittany

I’m starting to have quite a bit of content (interesting, I hope!) on Brittany that could help you plan your stay:

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