10 must-see places in and around Carnac!

I know Brittany pretty well. I love the north coast around Perros Guirec, I really enjoyed my discovery of the Emerald Coast, where I have been back several times, especially the medieval town of Saint Malo. But the Morbihan, not at all. Well, actually, apparently I went there with my family when I was 10, “you don’t remember?” my mum asks. Well, umm, not really. It was more than 30 years ago after all.

I won’t lie to you, there were 2 reasons to go to Carnac. First, it was the mid-August bank holiday weekend and I left it to the very last minute (what a great idea to have your wedding anniversary right in the middle of August), so there was only one place left to stay in Brittany and this was it 😀 Then, what convinced me to go was seeing the famous menhirs of Carnac, thousands of standing stones all over the area, with no real meaning or explanation, and a slightly mystical vibe. A big weird thing with no explanation whatsoever is bound to be something for me.

But luckily, Carnac is more than that, it’s a great base for exploring the surroundings and, more broadly, the Morbihan. Because there really is a ton of things to see around here! Let’s dive in

The megaliths of Carnac

Very simply, this is what you come here for. In fact, they are about to be added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.

The Carnac alignments are thousands of megaliths, big and small, lined up in rows over several kilometres. What is amazing is that they are between 4,000 and 6,500 years old, and we have no certainty about the why, the purpose or any possible rituals.

It starts in Carnac with the Menec alignments, the main site. It then continues with the Toulchignan alignments, the Kermario ones with a very large dolmen, and the Manio alignments.

All of this can be visited along the same road, which is super handy.

And there are several ways to visit them:

• on foot, but you can’t enter the main sites, except by taking the guided tour from the tourist centre at Le Menec (it must be quite interesting!)
• but viewing from the outside, that is to say just on the other side of the little wooden fence, is enough to see the menhirs very well. You just don’t get any explanation
• otherwise you can take a tourist bus tour, which is what we did to save time. Interesting, and it has the advantage of doing the whole loop fairly quickly while giving you an audio guide and a good view. We rounded it off with the walking tour of Le Menec.
  • Discover the tour with Menhirs Tours
• Another option is to explore the megalithic sites by Segway, for 1h30 with a guide who provides the information and legends
  • Discover the menhirs by Segway
• Finally, by bike. The entire site is lined with a pedestrian and cycle path, which is really pleasant if you have a bit of time

The other megalithic sites

There aren’t only the Carnac alignments (and those extending from them), you’ll find several other interesting sites not far from the town:

• The Kerzerho alignments, on the road to Erdeven, are the second largest megalithic site in Brittany and honestly they’re really lovely. Unlike Carnac, you can wander freely between the menhirs
• The Locmariaquer megaliths, we’ll cover this site in detail below, but it’s super interesting because it’s completely different
• The tumulus site and megaliths of the island of Gavrinis, which can only be seen on a guided tour from Larmor-Baden, is nicknamed “the Sistine Chapel of the Neolithic” for its engraved decorations
• The Petit Mont cairn in Arzon will make you think of a pyramid. Beautifully preserved, it once housed engraved menhirs
• the Er Lannic stone circles sit on a small islet and have the peculiarity of being half swallowed by the water

And plenty of others, they really are everywhere!

Enjoying the little town of Carnac

Honestly, I really liked the town of Carnac itself. Of course we were mainly there to explore the surrounding area, but we were pleasantly surprised by the town centre in particular, around the church. A fairly historic centre, rather old, with pretty Breton houses.

There’s a big contrast with the seafront, which is the other main district of Carnac, where you’ll perhaps find a little less authenticity, but the setting is great. The beach, yes, very large, pleasant, and beautiful big houses. The seafront is really nice!

Above St Colomban beach, there’s a very pretty part of Carnac with the little chapel of St Colomban.

We regretted a little not making more of the sea. We were there right in the middle of August and there weren’t too many people. OK, the weather wasn’t exactly veeery swim-friendly either. It has to be said this summer was particularly bad unfortunately, but as the Bretons say, the weather is nice several times a day!

So I’d say that with the little church, the town centre and the beach, there’s plenty to keep you busy in Carnac, combined with trips to the surrounding area. Without any stress, because it’s not very big. And all of it can be visited on foot.

And if you prefer, you can explore the town and beaches by Segway!

In Carnac, you should also make the most of the market on Wednesday and Sunday mornings. Really nice, good produce, large, good atmosphere. Apparently the one in Auray is very lovely too.

But we can’t not mention the Carnac prehistory museum. Not essential, but very nice and interesting. In particular you’ll find carved menhirs, artefacts from the area’s first inhabitants, and many displays explaining how these people lived, farming, livestock and funerary rites

A boat trip on the Gulf of Morbihan

This one was also a must. As it was the first time I was visiting the Morbihan (well, I’ll spare you the summer catch-up course with the Jesuits of Vannes when I was in high school, when I wasn’t allowed out 😀 it has to be said I’d rather deserved it!), I absolutely had to discover the famous gulf. It’s like a little inland sea, with a very mild climate and several islands that are lovely to visit.

So for this, there are many boat companies offering a big boat tour with an island visit. We took the great full-day tour of the bay with a stop on the Ile aux Moines. Snag: we took the 1-hour stopover, but that’s far from enough! Because you don’t even have time to walk to the middle of the island and back. Soooo, we magnificently missed the return boat 😀 And they had to pick us up later on another boat. But we did get to visit the island, I’ll tell you about it just after.

The goal of this tour is to get a proper guided visit of the Gulf of Morbihan, to see the main spots from the boat and hear their history. There are many islands in the gulf, so a discovery tour gives you a nice overview of the main islands, lets you see partly submerged megaliths, and simply enjoy a lovely moment on the water.

There are a great many companies operating in the gulf. We went with Navix. Why? Quite simply because they departed from Locmariaquer (close to where we were staying), made a stop at the Ile aux Moines and had good timetables. And they have a good reputation. But there are others such as l’Angelus (who brought us back after we missed our return) or Izenah.

There are several possible stopovers, we chose the Ile aux Moines, but if you can, take the 3-hour stopover because 1 hour is really too tight, the island is adorable and it’s worth taking your time. There’s also the Ile d’Arz. Prices start at around 25 euros.

Wandering around the Ile aux Moines

While discovering the Gulf of Morbihan by boat, we made a stop on the Ile aux Moines. A must-see in my opinion, try to stay more than an hour because it really is beautiful!

The Ile aux Moines is nicknamed the “pearl of the Gulf of Morbihan”. On top of its undeniable charm, it offers lovely landscapes with its fine sandy beaches, its green coastal paths and its small secluded coves. It’s a real haven of peace, ideal for a quiet getaway.

But above all, you have to wander through the village, authentically Breton with its cobbled lanes, its stone houses and its flower-filled gardens. I loved getting lost there (a bit too much, given that we missed the return boat) and unfortunately I didn’t make enough of it. But as they say, “it’s too cute!”

Finally, the Ile aux Moines has a rich history and megalithic remains. You can discover sites such as the Pointe du Blair or the Tumulus of Gavrinis.

Strolling around the Port of Saint Goustan in Auray

A really lovely surprise! It wasn’t on the programme at all, but someone at the Carnac market (a windbreaker seller if I remember rightly) advised us to go, especially as it really isn’t far.

Auray in itself isn’t exceptional, but its little port of Saint Goustan has bags of charm. Tiny, but with little cobbled lanes and medieval houses, a real postcard.

It breathes Breton authenticity, and even though the quaysides have seen the crêperies move in (rather good ones, I must say!) it’s a pleasure to stroll around. But really the very best was getting lost in the teeny cobbled streets, among the half-timbered houses, it breathes Breton history.

It really isn’t big, you can also (in fact especially) see the village from the fortress opposite, on the other side of the river. The view is very lovely! So plan for a late afternoon, a nice quiet visit and dinner there, it’s very enjoyable 🙂

Exploring the wild coast of Quiberon

I had never set foot on the Quiberon peninsula. So we took the chance to explore it a little, but I’d mainly been advised to do the wild coast, that is to say the road that runs along the west coast. Steep cliffs, a raw, magnificent coastline. Every sunset is different.

The main viewpoints along the Wild Coast are breathtaking. At Port Bara, you can admire the breaking waves and feel the sea breeze. The Pointe du Percho offers a panoramic view over the ocean, with its impressive rock formations. The Trou du Souffleur is a fascinating spot where the waves surge into a cavity, creating an impressive natural spectacle.

Quiberon itself is nice, with pretty beaches on the other side and a pleasant, lively town centre. There are also several thalassotherapy centres.

The surprising megaliths of Locmariaquer

The Locmariaquer megaliths are an impressive group of prehistoric monuments dating back to the Neolithic era. Three major monuments make up this site:

• The Table des Marchands: This is a granite slab measuring about 6.5 metres long by 4.5 metres wide. It rests on vertical stones and was probably used for religious or funerary rites.
• The Grand Menhir Brisé (Great Broken Menhir): it was the largest menhir in Europe, standing nearly 20 metres tall. Well, over time it broke into four pieces. The largest fragment, still in place, is about 6.5 metres.
• The Er Grah Tumulus: A tumulus nearly 140 metres long that housed a gallery grave. Excavations revealed funerary objects, testifying to the importance of this place in the ritual practices of the time.

These megaliths are of major historical importance. They bear witness to the architectural skill and social organisation of Neolithic communities. The exact meaning of these structures remains mysterious, but they are thought to have been linked to funerary, religious or astronomical rites.

You can of course visit the Locmariaquer megaliths for a unique immersion in the past, allowing you to contemplate astonishing architectural achievements dating back millennia. During this visit, you’ll find yourself wondering about the beliefs and practices of ancient peoples.

So yes I recommend the visit, in particular to see the engraved megaliths and the artefacts. There are many megalithic sites in the region but this one really has the advantage of being complete, with these 3 elements: the tumulus, the Table des Marchands and the enormous menhir.

Be careful with the opening times, they vary a lot (you can find them here), the price is 6 euros

• Book your tickets for the Locmariaquer megaliths

The other must-sees

I don’t talk about them specifically in this article because they’re places I didn’t have time to visit. But while doing my research, I’d noted them down as must-sees, or almost! Except that it would have taken many more days to discover them. So I’m forced to come back, oh what a shame!

• Vannes, a very pretty medieval town. Fortified, with a historic centre made of cobbled lanes and old buildings, this town has a lot of charm!
• From Carnac you can very easily reach several renowned islands: Belle Ile of course, perhaps the best known of the Breton islands. The island of Houat, which was strongly recommended to me, and the island of Hoedic.
• The village of Saint Cado and its tiny island, but also its house with the shutters that sits on its own little islet. Super photogenic

4 recommended places to stay in Carnac

Essential information for visiting Carnac

How long to stay in Carnac

Well, it depends (otherwise it would be too easy, wouldn’t it). Carnac is an ideal base on several occasions:

• a long weekend, at least 3 days on site, otherwise it can add up to quite a lot of miles for not much time there; it lets you discover a bit of the surroundings and leaves you wanting to come back afterwards
• a week to discover the surroundings and the Morbihan, honestly it’s great! You’re close to everything and there are enough things to see around here not to get bored

When to visit Carnac

I was there for the mid-August weekend and it was very pleasant. Well, after a summer where the weather had been dreadful, we were happy to have decent weather without it being too hot or too crowded.

Inevitably summer (June to September) is great. But I find that Carnac, like Brittany in general, also works really well for the long weekends in May. As it’s a touch further away, there are fewer Parisians than during the main summer holidays. And it’s just as enjoyable, I think.

From November to February, you should rather expect more rain and wind, but the Gulf of Morbihan benefits from a kind of micro-climate that makes life pleasant all the time; it’s far less exposed to heavy rain and storms than the north of Brittany (like St Malo or Perros Guirec).

Where to stay in Carnac

Well, as it’s a very touristy destination, there are plenty of options. But it’s an upmarket destination and prices are relatively high, even out of season.

There are quite a few private rentals, but it varies a lot. There are also plenty of apartments, hotels and residences.

You have two options: either be in the town centre, which is nice and quite lively. Or be by the beach. Both have their pros and cons, but you can very easily get from one to the other, in about 40 minutes on foot.

In the town centre:

• Hotel les Alignements, very decent both in quality and price. Nothing exceptional but it does the job just fine. Between 70 and 100 euros a night
• A nice and spacious 65 m² apartment for 130 euros
• To treat yourself, the Tumulus Spa Hotel, on a superb estate. And really not expensive in low season, from 90 euros!

By the beach:

• Hotel la Licorne, excellent value for money and very well located, from 74 euros
• The 40 m² apartment “Les Horizons” set truly right on the seafront, from 120 euros
• To treat yourself a little without breaking the bank, the Diana spa hotel, from 120 euros

Find your dream place to stay in Carnac!

How to get to Carnac

Good news! You can get there by train. There’s a high-speed (TGV) station in Auray. On Ouigo, from Paris, it’s 3h30 and costs from 19 euros. Not bad!

Once in Auray, there’s a regional (TER) train that takes 30 minutes to reach Carnac station. Well, the snag is there are only 3 to 4 trains a day. The ticket costs just 2.50 euros.

Otherwise by car, from Paris it’s not exactly next door. It’s 500 km, so about 5 hours. But the drive is easy. Budget a little over 30 euros in tolls.

A few restaurants in Carnac

There’s plenty of choice, but as in any self-respecting tourist spot, you have to sort the wheat from the chaff.

• the Bisetro, good atmosphere, they’re very friendly, you eat very decently
• for crêpes in the town centre, you have to go to Chez Marie. As you need to book in high season, we could never get in, there were always too many people, shame!
• for local fine dining, there’s Itsasoa
• word has it that the best restaurant at a reasonable price is Chez Auguste, which does crêpes but not only
• finally, to eat by the beach, we went to la Sultana, and honestly we ate very well without it being over the top.

In conclusion

There you go! I think I’ve told you everything or almost about Carnac. At least everything I know, everything I enjoyed. It’s a lovely place full of history, that you’ll come to discover for its megaliths but thankfully not only. It’s an ideal base for exploring the region, whether for a long weekend or more. Or if you’re looking for a place to laze about and relax, it’s just as suitable with its beaches and its mild climate, all just a few minutes from the Gulf of Morbihan.

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