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Where is this hike?
The GR 34 is a short hike of… 1700km, which really does go all the way around Brittany, skirting the coast in some really nice places. It starts at Mont Saint Michel, continues along Ille et Vilaine, Côtes d’Armor, Finistère, Morbihan and finishes in Loire Atlantique. Quite a route! But here, the section we’re most interested in is between Saint-Brieuc and Saint-Malo, a few km from Erquy, right in the Côtes d’Armor. This hike is also called the customs trail, because in the 17th century, to avoid import taxes, smugglers preferred to land just about anywhere along the coast. This led to the construction of numerous towers and customs houses. The beginnings of tax evasion! By the way, if you’d like to find out more about the other sections, don’t hesitate to consult Gregory’s article on the GR34, which will give you a lot more information! And if you’d like to discover the GR 34 on the Côte de Granit Rose, it which starts in Perros Guirec
A short presentation of Fort la Latte
Fort la Latte, whose more official name is Château de la Roche Guyon, is a magnificent fortified castle, a vital part of Saint Malo’s defense system, as can be seen from its Vauban-style fortifications. A fortress that the English, once again, failed to capture. It has to be said that the château is located on a cape that is very difficult to access and offers a perfect view. As well as annoying the English (as a matter of principle), the fort itself is magnificent, very well restored, and makes for a really interesting visit. The icing on the cake is the magnificent view and location. It’s worth taking the time to stroll around, especially on the little beach to one side. But we’ll talk more about Fort la Latte in a dedicated article coming soon! (well, at my own speed)
Visit Fort la Latte
Opening times vary according to the season, but on average it’s 10am-6pm, a little more in high season. The price is €6.60 per adult and €4.40 for children. As for the length of the visit, frankly it can take a little time, there are things to see, it’s interesting. So over an hour, easy. And I recommend you take the short walk down to the foot of the fort, on the right.
A short presentation of Cape Frehel
Watch out, nugget. Cap Fréhel is one of the most beautiful places in Brittany. And that’s understandable! First of all, its location. As its name suggests, it’s a cape. And it offers a fantastic view of the Breton coast and its cliffs, especially for the sunset, as we’ll see. As well as the Fort la Latte, the view stretches from Paimpol to the Cotentin peninsula when the coast is clear. We’re not on the pink granite coast, but Cap Frehel is made of pink sandstone, and the colors are magnificent, especially at the beginning or end of the day. Last but not least, its lighthouse is one of the most powerful on the coast, visible for over 50km. With numerous paths leading to and from Cap Frehel, it’s easy to spend the day strolling around, admiring the cliffs and the bird sanctuary while catching gusts of wind. No need to blow-dry beforehand, really.
Visit Cape Frehel
You can go to the top of the lighthouse. Which sounds like a lot of fun, but I couldn’t tell you what it looks like because, like a smartass, I wanted to go up for the sunset but forgot to look at the timetable. Always the king of organization. Admission costs 3€ for adults and 1.5€ for children, and times vary. When I was there, it closed at 6pm I think. You can find out more on their website. Parking is charged, 3h.
This hike on the GR 34, a magnificent natural setting
On one side, the view of Cap Fréhel and its colorful cliffs, especially in the morning light (but at the end of the day it’s not bad either!), on the other, Fort la Latte enthroned on its rock, giving the impression of taunting anyone who wanted to come ashore. Frankly, there are worse views! In fact, the GR34 was voted favorite GR. Even on this short stretch, it’s easy to see why.
As you step onto the trail, what strikes you is the abundance of color and nature. Lots of heather, flowers, ferns, a passage through the forest that gives the impression of being in the jungle. And on top of that, there are the pretty beaches with their turquoise waters, the coves, the cliffs – it’s a festival.
Towards Cap Fréhel, the cliffs are also an ornithological reserve, where birds nest and play with the gusts of wind. It makes the walk even more enjoyable! In some places, don’t hesitate to leave the main path to get closer to the cliffs – it’s quite feasible without being dangerous, there are little paths, and you’ll get an even better view. Over 1h30, you won’t see the time go by. In fact, you’ll spend the whole day or even half a day here, because between the superb vegetation, the turquoise water and the coves that appear after a bend in the road, you’ll be saying “oooh it’s beautiful! What’s more, although Cap Frehel is one of the most touristy spots, the trail is much less so. At 500m from the lighthouse, there aren’t many people left.
Practical information between Fort la Latte and Cap Frehel
Which way to hike?
Roughly speaking, we have 5km between Fort la Latte and Cap Frehel. So 1h30 with photo breaks (you’ll see, you’ll take plenty!). The return trip takes half a day, but I recommend finishing at Cap Frehel for the sunset. Because there, with the cliffs and the pink rock, it’s really superb. And I’d even go so far as to say that a nice day starts at Cap Frehel, with a walk to the fort, lunch at the crêperie next door (Le Petit Galet, very good), a tour (2 hours with the little corners next door) and a return to Cap Frehel for the end of the day. A great day out, lots to see, a bit sporty, and if there are kids around, they’ll be very happy. And so will you!
How long does it take from Fort la Latte to Cap Frehel?
I talk about it just above, the outward journey is 5km, so the return journey is 10 (you see the guy who studied hard). That’s 2h30 without a break. But it’d be a shame not to take those breaks, especially when nature’s having a field day! Everywhere along the way you’ll find something to enjoy, and at the Cape and the Fort you’ll also have plenty to take in. So the return trip without a visit is half a day, but as indicated above, take the whole day and visit the Fort, then spend the end of the day at Cape Frehel. Plus, it’s less crowded then.
Trail accessibility
Unfortunately, apart from near Cap Frehel, the trail is a real dirt track, not at all accessible to baby carriages or people with reduced mobility. On the other hand, it’s not difficult, with very little difference in altitude, and not a major hazard. So even if, like me, you’re not in the best physical condition, it’s very, very easy. There’s one section where it goes downhill a bit, but it’s not difficult at all.
Departure from the central parking lot
There’s a shorter version of the walk starting from the roadside parking lot, right between the two sites. From here, you join the GR34 and can walk to either the Fort or the Cap, both taking around 45 minutes. Unlike the Cap Frehel parking lot, it’s free.
Where to stay
I was in Saint Malo, which is a very good place to visit, but on the coast there are some great places to stay. I’m thinking in particular of Saint Jacut de la Mer, Saint Briac sur mer, Erquy and all its beaches. But the good thing is that you’ll also find great houses to rent, and not particularly expensive (well, in the summer, they go very quickly). For example, this house near Cap Frehel or this vacation home, all for less than 100€
4 recommended accommodations
Conclusion
Well, I hope I’ve convinced you that if you’re in the Côtes d’Armor, you have to come this way. I’d say that since Cap Frehel and Fort la Latte are must-sees, then this walk between the two is too, logical. And above all, we’re close enough to everything: Saint Malo, not too far from Mont Saint Michel, Erquy nearby, the pink granite coast a little further away. And if you want to see another great stretch of the GR 34 in the area, take a look at this article on Perros Guirec!
