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I must confess that this trip between the Bavarian Alps and the Austrian Tyrol wasn’t necessarily planned in advance. With a last-minute vacation for the week of August 15, I needed somewhere out of the ordinary, natural, not too touristy, but not too hot. And mountains, ideally.
By taking the time at the last minute, I saw some great opportunities here, and frankly, I don’t regret it at all! Fairytale castles, superb mountains, nature, small Alpine towns with pretty typical chalets, and beautiful cities between Munich and Innsbruck. So of course, we had a great time for a week.
I’m going to show you in this article the wonders to be found in this region. And frankly, it’s only a small glimpse, because with each new road you’ll discover other nuggets. Let’s go!

5 reasons to visit the Bavarian Alps and North Tyrol
- it feels so good!
- it’s not a very touristy region, even in high season
- the castles of bavaria are wonderful
- the food is good and the beers are great
- the setting, the mountains, you’re in magnificent, soothing natural surroundings
Neuschwanstein Castle
The real fairytale castle! Neuschwanstein Castle is a real eye-catcher, with its setting, its architecture and the different viewpoints all around it. I’ve seen it hundreds of times in photos, but to have seen it in front of me a few days ago is truly unique.
It’s a bit like coming face to face with Chambord for the first time, it’s really something!
The “little” problem with this château is that you have to book your tickets well in advance. In August, there was a 3-week delay. So I had to make do with the exteriors, which are already magnificent.
The tour itself is said to be quite “but”. But it’s very quick, 20/30 at a run, no photos. It’s quite industrial, and you can’t get through without a guided tour. Well, the interior looks superb, straight out of the imagination of Ludwig II of Bavaria. So it’s worth doing, even if it’s rather expensive (€20).
Above all, take in all the viewpoints around the castle, from the Marienbrücke and 5 minutes beyond. It’s magical!
On the way back down, take a dip in the water or just get some fresh air at Lake Alpsee, which is great fun! In the following article, I’ll give you all the information you need to visit Neuschwanstein Castle.
- Online ticketing
- Visit from Munich
- Recommended nearby accommodation


Alternative – Hohenschwangau Castle
Just across the road from Neuschwanstein (I don’t think I’ll ever get it right first time) is Hohenschwangau Castle (also super easy to spell).
Totally different, a medieval castle that was renovated by Ludwig II in a very different style? It’s less crowded than Neuschwanstein, so it’s easier to get tickets.
So, to be honest, the interior isn’t as stunning as its neighbor or Linderhof, but it’s interesting. And it’s right next to Lake Alpsee.


Linderhof Castle
I’m not putting it alongside Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau, because the superb Linderhof Castle is in a different place, in its own little corner, and above all because it’s different. Ludwig II of Bavaria was a great fan of Louis XIV, and we can see that.
There are several reasons why I really recommend a visit to the interior of Linderhof Palace:
- it’s really not expensive, €9
- the interiors are superb, as bling bling as you can get, shiny, gold everywhere, just as you’d expect from a royal castle 😀
But you really must take the time to visit the outside too! The gardens are magnificent, overlooking the castle from both sides, two superb views. You’re in the middle of nature, and there aren’t too many people, even no one compared to Schwangau.
To visit, it’s best to book a few days in advance during the high tourist season (i.e. August). And if you don’t want to visit the inside, then the outside is free – it’ll only cost you the price of parking, i.e. €3.
- Online ticketing
- Tour from Munich: Linderhof and Neuschwanstein
- Recommended nearby accommodation




Wies church
A nice surprise! In this part of Europe, between southern Germany and Austria, I love their totally rococo churches.
And the Wies church is one of the finest examples in the world. Founded in 1749, lost in the countryside, it’s an ode to color and light. It’s quite incredible.
Trompe l’oeil in shambles, marble columns, crazy ceilings (with the rainbow, all that’s missing are the Care Bears!). This is in stark contrast to the other side of the church, on the organ side, which is just as magnificent. And the worst thing is, there aren’t many people there.
The church is open until 8pm in general, is free, so really, you must go.




Ettal Abbey
Another great surprise! We were on our way back from the church in Wies to have lunch in Garmisch when we passed a huge and beautiful abbey in Ettal.
This Benedictine abbey is a must-see, as the interior is, once again, superb: a huge, fully-decorated cupola, a fantastic ceiling, enough to give you a stiff neck!
Fun fact: this is where the Benedictine monks created Benediktiner beer. And frankly, it’s really good (the weissbier is a real treat). You can’t buy it on the premises, but in nearby supermarkets.



The Zugspitze summit
This is Germany’s highest mountain. And at its summit, which is easily accessible, there’s a huge platform offering an exceptional view of the Austrian Alps and Bavaria, with the superb Lake Eibsee as a bonus.
It’s not cheap – around €60 for a round trip – but it’s well worth it for the panoramic view.
There are several possibilities. :
- I took the Ehrwald cable car, which is super fast and convenient.
- There’s also the cable car from Eibsee, which is also fast.
- Or take the train from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to the glacier and then the small cable car from the glacier to the summit. It takes a bit longer, but it’s not bad at all!
Just make sure you plan ahead according to the weather, so you don’t end up in the clouds – that would be a shame!
You can find all the information you need on the Zugspitze website.
The summit is shared by two countries, Austria and Germany. And you can feel the difference once you’re up there. On the Austrian side, it’s a sober, restaurant not that great. On the German side, a huge biergarten 😀



Getting lost in the narrow mountain roads
It’s cool to say “go here, go there, do this and do that”, but the big fun out there is enjoying the scenery and riding a bit aimlessly. This gave us the opportunity to discover nuggets like Lake Blindsee, which I’ll tell you about in this article.
On both the Baravarian and Tyrolean sides, the roads are bewitching. Just like that, I’d tell you the roads around Garmisch, Ehrwald, Schwangau, the road from Ammerwald to Ettal in the middle of the mountains.
And you either come across mountains, or flower-filled villages, or hills with a typical church in the background. Tough.


4 recommended accommodations in the area
CHALET ST ANTON
- Located in Grainau, near Garmisch-Partenkirchen
- A large chalet in the forest next to Lake Eibsee
- From 119€!
SCHICKSTER SKY LODGE
- At the foot of the mountains in Leutasch, Austria
- 9.1/10 on Booking
- From 144€!
AMERON NEUSCHWANSTEIN
- Opposite Neuschwanstein Castle!
- Couldn’t be better placed
- 9.0/10 on Booking
The city of Munich
I’d wanted to discover Munich for a long time. But without really knowing what to expect.
So from Ehrwald, we took advantage of a crappy weather day to go to the Bavarian capital. In the end, the weather was superb, and we spent more time enjoying the outdoors (and beers on the terrace) than the museums, especially as the latter were closing early.
But Munich is above all the MarienPlatz, with its incredible Rathaus. Magnificent Gothic style, just the way I like it, with gargoyles, a dragon and staircases from fantasy films.
We’ve also got some great churches like Asamkirche, but I really recommend going to the top of the towers of St. Peter’s Church. “Alter Peter” will give you an insane view of the city and the Rathaus in particular, but without the tide of people in front of it.
On the other hand, it has to be earned. It doesn’t look like it, but it’s high! 14 floors 😀 After that, we deserve another beer (they also have great non-alcoholic beers in the region, really).
We also wanted to enjoy the interiors, and had targeted Residenz, Bavaria’s former royal palace, which looks sumptuous, as well as the Nymphenburg Palace. Except that we always have a bit of trouble with German schedules, so we didn’t make it.
Even though the city was largely destroyed during the war and rebuilt in a much more recent style, it’s a pleasant, pretty city. It’s a pleasure to stroll around and stop off at one of the many terraces. And you can easily explore the surrounding area to discover Bavaria.



- What to see in Munich
- Marienplatz
- Asamkirche church
- Residenz Palace
- Nymphenburg Palace
- Sightseeing from Munich: Linderhof and Neuschwanstein
- Recommended accommodation in Munich
- Hotel MIO by AMANOU, excellent value for money 2 steps from the city center
- Where to eat
- the famous Nuernberger Bratwurst Gloeckl am Dom sausages
- the Hofbräuhaus institution
- Augustiner Klosterwirt for traditional beers and dishes

Innsbruck, the capital of Tyrol
Because we also did a lot of sightseeing in the Tyrol, and it’s well worth it! Innsbrück is a very pleasant town. It’s very prout prout, as Austrians are wont to do, but you get the feeling that this superb town has a rebellious streak that could tend towards Budapest.
The architecture is magnificent, and the setting is top-notch, as you’re surrounded by mountains. A real postcard town! And above all, its old town center. It’s not very big, but it’s so pretty, with its little streets, its houses that aren’t straight and are superbly ornate.
Of course, Maria-Theresien Strasse comes to mind, with its Baroque facades and its column. We’ll go and see the “little golden roof”, the Hofkirche church. But in Innsbrück, it’s all about taking it easy.
If you want to get some height, you can take the Nordkette cable car, which gives you a superb view of the mountains and the town. Unfortunately I couldn’t do it because of the wind, but it looked very tempting!


- What to see in town
- Marie-Theresien Strasse
- Altstadt, the old town
- Hofburg Palace
- Hofkirche church
- Innsbruck cable car
- Swarovski Kristallwelten a little outside
- take time to lose yourself in the city
- The Innsbruck Card
- includes transport, cable cars, museums and attractions
- Information and booking
- A Tyrolean folk show
- my wife thought it was a pity we didn’t get to see one, because it’s true that I hadn’t looked for one at all. So here’s one, it might be interesting!
- Information and booking
- Recommended accommodation in Innsbruck
- The very nice and not too expensive Best Western Plus Goldener Adler, right in the city center
- For dining
- the quality of the products at Goldener Adler
- the superb goulash at Altstadt-Schmankerl
- local produce boards at the Speckeria
- Augustiner Klosterwirt for traditional beers and dishes



The pretty villages of southern Bavaria
The most beautiful towns in Bavaria are to be found in the north of the region (which is a long way away), and the most beautiful Alpine villages are to be found in Switzerland, but in the south of Bavaria, there are some very pretty villages and small towns with dark wooden houses, full of flowers, with very pretty ornaments, paintings… in short, the images you might have of Bavarian villages.
Of course, Garmisch Partenkirchen comes to mind. THE Bavarian tourist resort, famous for its winter sports, but not only. The town itself is very pretty, with typical chalets and houses with pretty shop windows. Super-central, close to everything, with easy access to the mountains, hiking and, frankly, peace and quiet.
A little further north, there’s another very pretty village: Oberammergau. It’s typical of the area, with more superb chalets and houses with trompe l’oeil motifs, and they’re specialists in woodworking. So you’ll find lots of woodcarving stores.
I went there at the end of the day for dinner, so there was less time to explore, as it wasn’t quite planned, but frankly, go for it! Oh, and I took advantage of the fact that it was at the Ammergauer Maxbräu restaurant that I drank the best beer. The local weissbier is simply exceptional, and so is the alcohol-free version.
Right next to Garmisch Partenkirchen is Grainau, at the foot of the Zugspitze mountain. Another pretty village, it’s the starting point for many a hike and has the added advantage of being home to Lake Eibsee, also mentioned in this article. It’s a very pleasant village, quieter, but a really nice environment.
I didn’t have the time to go there, but as small villages, go to Krun and Wallgau, super cute!
Finally, it’s not a village, but we really liked the architecture of the little town of Füssen, right next to the castles. Very pretty houses, a castle – it’s typically German and, frankly, very cool!





The beautiful mountain lakes
This is just too good. We’re going to have a lot of lovely lakes in the region. Mountain lakes, lakes for swimming, for relaxing, for hiking.
I’m going to tell you about the ones I know, not the high-altitude ones that are accessible by hiking, because I have to admit that my legs didn’t feel up to it on this trip 😀
Lake Blindsee
The big surprise! We stumbled across it by chance, and it’s quite simply one of the most beautiful lakes in Austria. Blindsee is a small lake surrounded by mountains, very easy to get to. First of all, there’s a great viewpoint high up to appreciate the colors of the lake water. Then, to get closer (which you must!), you have two options:
- walk down from the viewpoint to the lake, where there’s a nice little beach. 15-minute walk and off you go
- drive to the other side of the lake, where there’s a small area where you have to pay to enter.
And once you’re at the bottom, you can walk around the lake – it’s great fun! and there are swimming spots all over the place.



Lake Eibsee
One of Germany’s most beautiful lakes. Located just outside Garmisch-Partenkirchen, it’s a real little haven of peace. People come to swim, to relax, to tour the lake, which is large but magnificent.
There’s no beach to speak of, just the trees that line the lake, so you’ll find mini coves where you can settle in, which is really nice! Admission is free, but parking is charged.


Plansee for nautical activities
We also stumbled across Plansee by chance. It’s a large lake with translucent waters, at the foot of the mountains, a magnificent setting.
There’s also a beautiful river running alongside the road. And all this, together with the lack of current, is the perfect setting for stand-up paddling, canoeing or just splashing around and relaxing.
Unlike the other lakes, there’s a whole area to rent, with a beach, a restaurant and plenty of places to have a drink.
So yes, this area is more developed, but it’s easy to get away from it all and be alone again in an incredible setting.

Konigsee and Obersee
Here we’re much further east, on the border with Austria and Salzburg. Königsee is a crazy lake. Surrounded by towering mountains, its charm is insane, and all you want to do is see more of it.
To do this, you absolutely must take the boat to the middle of the lake. You’ll arrive in the middle, in an enchanting setting, especially if it’s foggy or cloudy.
Depending on the season, it’s also possible to walk to the small Obersee lake, which is best known for its wooden hut.
Unfortunately, when I was there in winter, it wasn’t possible to do this walk because of the rain. But if you get the chance, go for it!


Practical information about South Bavaria and North Tyrol
When is the best time to visit the region?
Summer (June to September) is ideal for hiking, enjoying nature, beautiful colors and not too bad weather. And honestly, not that crowded (except for Neuschwanstein Castle)
In winter, the region is a paradise for skiing and snowshoeing, with ski resorts and slopes absolutely everywhere! You’ll find taffy in every village, and you’ve got the biggest areas like Garmisch-Partenkirschen.
The in-between seasons are rainy but not at all touristy, so that’s fine too.
I came here in January for the first time, and it’s true that there weren’t many people. But it was pretty wet, I must admit 😀
So, it depends on what you want. Hiking or skiing? If you’re coming in summer, it’s a good idea to book your castle visits a little in advance, so you don’t end up with your beak in the water like we did.

Where to stay to visit the Bavarian Alps and North Tyrol
The area is still very big. So depending on what you want to see, you can have one or 2/3 accommodations in the whole of southern Bavaria, especially if you want to get closer to Konigsee.
We spent a whole week in Ehrwald, on the Austrian side. A nice little village. From there, it was super easy to get to everything (Munich, Innsbruck, castles…).
We stayed at the Apartments S, brand-new, super-functional apartments facing the mountains.
The Zugspitz Lodge in Ehrwald is just next door to an even nicer village: Lermoos. More pretty chalets, but more touristy. Both are worth it and both are really nice 🙂
In Lermoos, I’d recommend Apart Haus Alpenhof, a magnificent setting! But there are plenty of super-interesting possibilities on the German side.
In Grainau, for example, the Boutique Hotel Längenfelder Hof is top-notch and magnificent.
In Garmisch Partenkirchen, you’ll also find some lovely chalets. For example, the Bavaria Biohotel, the Rheinischer Hof, and the magnificent Hotel Aschenbrenner.
If you’re heading further east, then I suggest the Relais & Châteaux Gut Steinbach, superb in the heart of the mountains.
How long to visit the region
We stayed there for a week and concentrated on a small part of it, which is already quite busy considering we didn’t take much time to settle down.
But if you want to do this part as well as go further east, then you’ll either have to make choices or take more time.
Ten days isn’t bad at all, and you can do 5 days on the west side, 5 days on the east side. And that’s not bad at all!
In 2 weeks, you can enjoy much more of Austria, of the Tyrol, Kitzbuhel and Salzburg, for example

How to get to the Bavarian Alps
We drove from Paris to Ehrwald. It takes 9h without stopping, so 11h with quite a few breaks. Not necessarily ideal, but there are quicker ways if you fly to Munich or Innsbruck. Possibly Salzburg if you’re flying from the east.
Except that, unlike the other two, the flight to Munich is direct with Air France in particular. After that, I VERY strongly advise you to compare flights and airlines.
For that I use the Kayak comparator, and it works very well.
Once you’re there, getting around by car is almost indispensable. Many of the main sites are accessible by bus and train, but if you have the opportunity, I’d recommend renting a car for the sake of flexibility (plus petrol is much cheaper than back home!). For my part, I compare with Discover Cars, reliable and trusted, with agency reviews.
You can also rent a car from a private individual with Getaround. I use it from time to time abroad and have never had any problems. It starts at around €25, you just have to be careful about mileage (around 200 per day on average),and there’s a €15 discount on your first rental!

In conclusion
In fact, the difficulty lies in making choices, balancing between activities such as castle visits, nature activities such as lakes and hikes (I won’t mention them here for lack of knowledge), and city visits.
You’ll need to be careful how far you go, as Konigsee, for example, is more than 2 hours from Innsbruck. But in the end, I’d say improvise, as we did.
Write down your must-sees (Neuschwanstein is one of them!) and then set off on your leisurely wander.
I’d say that’s the best way to discover the region, even if I generally like to have a well-defined itinerary.
Frankly, it’s best done without one, because there’s so much to see everywhere, and you’re going to waste a lot of time taking little discovery breaks left and right.
Well, in any case, you’re really going to enjoy it, that’s for sure!
⭐️ Discover Neuschwanstein, Hohenschwangau and Linderhof castles! ⭐️









