12-day West Iceland itinerary: Snæfellsnes, Westfjords and Highlands

Planning an itinerary in Iceland is usually quite a challenge, and something of a head-scratcher. So yes, it’s a round island with a road that loops all the way around. Hard to get lost, I’ll admit. But if you don’t fancy racing round and only doing the ring road, you need to take the following into account: the season, road openings, 4×4 or not, campervan or not, the weather.

This trip to Iceland happened in rather unusual conditions. It was decided at the last minute, and having chosen this destination just a few days before departure made the trip really special! Indeed, in mid-October the F roads are normally closed and the interior of the country is inaccessible. Yet this time that wasn’t the case – almost everything was still open. So I was able to hire a 4×4 campervan precisely to reach these roads that are off-limits to normal cars, and see magical places like the Fjallabak, Landmannalaugar, glaciers and geysers, and build my itinerary according to the weather and my mood, day by day.

Originally I’d set off with a certain itinerary in mind, mainly with the aim of chasing the northern lights at the island’s most famous spots (Vestrahorn, Vatnajokull, Skogafoss…), but being in a van, the weather and the absence of auroras completely changed my plans, which ended up being decided day by day. Much to my delight! Because I was able to make the most of remote places and F roads, crossing paths with very few tourists. Which is the dream of just about every traveller 🙂

In the end, my route focused on the entire west of the island, between Reykjanes, Snaefellsnes, the Westfjords, Fjallabak and the F35 road

5 reasons to discover the west of Iceland off the beaten track

• Reaching the country’s remote and magnificent spots
• Without a single tourist
• Getting to sleep in stunning places in a campervan
• The Westfjords, the most isolated place on the island
• The joys of the routalakon!

Itinerary for a 12-day road trip in the west of Iceland

The road trip itinerary breaks down like this

• Day 1: picking up the campervan and driving to the Golden Circle
• Day 2: the Golden Circle (Geysir, Gullfoss) and the start of the F35
• Day 3: Hjalparfoss, Gjain and Haifoss, three waterfalls in one day
• Day 4: Haifoss up close and a night in the heart of the Fjallabak
• Day 5: the F208 track and Landmannalaugar
• Day 6: driving to Snaefellsnes via Grabrok and Stykkisholmur
• Day 7: the Snaefellsnes peninsula and the F570 track up Snaefellsjokull
• Day 8: driving to the Westfjords via roads 60 and 62
• Day 9: the Latrabjarg cliffs and Dynjandi waterfall
• Day 10: the seven fjords from Isafjordur, and a whale
• Day 11: back to Reykjavik via the F35 (Kjölur) and Kerlingarfjoll
• Day 12: the Blue Lagoon and the Reykjanes peninsula

Day 1: picking up the campervan and driving to the Golden Circle

And off we go! Campervan hired from CampEasy. A 4×4 so I could take the F roads that are still open this October. Used as I am to driving a little Twingo around the Paris region, I think I did well to take out fully comprehensive insurance 😀 (if you’re wondering which cover is actually worth it, I’ve sorted it all out here) And I’m already dreading parallel parking a thing this size (can you tell I’m a Parisian who only drives a Twingo?)
The goal for the end of the day: head for the Golden Circle to spend the night there and start the sightseeing fairly early the next morning.

You can tell the guy is totally at ease with parking

The interior is well laid out, as big as a Parisian flat!

Day 2: the Golden Circle (Geysir, Gullfoss) and the start of the F35

You should know that the Golden Circle, which includes Thingvellir, Geysir and Gullfoss, is the most touristy spot on the island. It’s also the easiest to do, because plenty of tourists stop over for a day or two on the island and inevitably do this circuit. By bus from Reykjavik or in a hire car, it’s very easy to do in a day.

Apparently the geysers at Geysir (the Icelandic name that gave geysers their name) are most active in the morning. Every geyser on the site has its own little name. And the funny thing is that the most active one isn’t Geysir, but Strokkur. Go figure.
And indeed, in the morning it’s rather impressive. Strokkur (the only one that really makes a racket) easily shoots up to between 10 and 20 m, and there are far fewer people than from 10am onwards.

On to the famous Gullfoss, the “golden waterfall”. Very impressive but very touristy.
And from there, the F35 begins and lets you head further inland. There’s not a soul around and the scenery is lovely, lunar even, between volcanoes and glaciers. I’ll stay here to try to catch the northern lights, because the sky is very clear, the air is dry, barely cloudy, and the setting is really top-notch. Well, even though conditions were perfect, the auroras didn’t really show up. Just a rain check for another time!

Discover the Golden Circle here

Iceland’s impressive geysers

One of Iceland’s most famous waterfalls, and the most touristy

Day 3: Hjalparfoss, Gjain and Haifoss, three waterfalls in one day

Below the Golden Circle road, there’s another road that forms a loop and offers a fantastic spectacle. In a hillier setting, less green, far more volcanic and arid, you’ll find 3 superb waterfalls that make for a lovely day out: Hjalparfoss, Gjain and Haifoss. Which you can discover here. Careful though, a 4×4 is pretty much essential!

Day 4: Haifoss up close and a night in the heart of the Fjallabak

Yesterday, having arrived at Haifoss too late, I hadn’t been able to do the short hike to the foot of the waterfalls. And with the wind, I hadn’t really been able to enjoy it. It was too dangerous to get close. So I decided to spend a little while there and make the most of it rather than just a quick stop, because this waterfall is really worth it. The walk down to the foot of the two falls (Haifoss and its twin sister Granni) is well worth it, as it takes you into a lovely canyon where you can get right up close to them.

Since I also wanted to head to Landmannalaugar the next day via the F208 road, I first wanted to save time on the drive by getting as close as possible, and then find a nice spot to spend the night out in nature. Let’s be clear right away: sleeping in a van outside a campsite has been banned in Iceland since 2015, and the fine starts at 50,000 ISK. That night, in October, the campsites in the area were closed and there wasn’t a soul within 50 km. I wouldn’t do it again in peak season and I don’t recommend it: these days it’s monitored, and campsites stay open pretty much everywhere. Anyway, I found the most discreet spot imaginable, facing the mountains and volcanoes of the Fjallabak and immense lava fields. Ideal for sunset and sunrise, as well as for watching the northern lights. Far from all civilisation, all noise, all light. Maybe a little too far, to the point of being spooky at times 😀 But an extraordinary night in an extraordinary setting, with just a tiny bit of northern lights to top it all off! I actually tell you about this night in the middle of the Highlands in detail here.

The superb Haifoss waterfall

A few northern lights above the glacier

Day 5: the F208 track and Landmannalaugar

A proverb says (something like) that it’s not the destination that matters, but the journey. And that’s exactly what I love about Iceland. The roads generally run through extraordinary scenery and the destination is, for me, just an excuse. Landmannalaugar is beautiful, no doubt, but it’s worth lingering on the F208, on the road that leads there. Because it crosses some fantastic places.
After a fantastic sunrise and a little exploration of where I’d spent the night, I decided to take a whole day to cover these few dozen kilometres across the Fjallabak, and I wasn’t disappointed. You’ll find dozens of photo spots, short walks to do, craters to climb.
And once at Landmannalaugar, there are also plenty of walks, including one to a colourful volcano that’s still steaming. The very best of the best!
I left the site under snowfall, which just goes to show that winter, though running late, was starting to show its face and the road would be closed within a few days. I got lucky!

The superb sunrise colours over the mountains and volcanoes of the Fjallabak

An extraordinary view in the Fjallabak park

The mountains of Landmannalaugar

4 excellent places to stay and rest

Day 6: driving to Snaefellsnes via Grabrok and Stykkisholmur

The plan now is to head up towards the Westfjords, but I can’t not go through Snaefellsnes, a corner of Iceland I adore. They say it’s Iceland in miniature, and it’s true. Volcanoes, glaciers, lava fields, small villages, black sand beaches – you’ll find absolutely everything on this little peninsula. So much so that, since my last visit, it has become very popular!
The road from Reykjavik is superb; you start to come across the real, typical Icelandic mountains. Those immense, steep mountains “sliced off” at their peaks. And the entrance to Snaefellsnes is worthy of arriving on another planet, between volcanoes and lava fields.
After all that driving I was finally able to enjoy a proper meal and discover the charming fishing village of Stykkisholmur.

Horses everywhere and the typical Icelandic mountains

A little detour to go and see the famous Grabrok volcanoes

Day 7: the Snaefellsnes peninsula and the F570 track up Snaefellsjokull

I already know Snaefellsnes and it’s a place I love. But what I hadn’t managed last time was the little back roads, which I was quick to tackle this time 🙂 As the peninsula isn’t very wide, there aren’t loads of them. But along road 54, to the north, you’ll find little F roads that plunge into the lava fields and loop around mountains.
Snaefellsnes also has countless beautiful waterfalls!
But where I had the most fun was taking the F570. Going around the Snaefellsjokull volcano (which, according to Jules Verne, is the entrance to his Journey to the Centre of the Earth), you can take a really fun little road that climbs towards the glacier for about twenty kilometres. A proper routalakon, with tricky, super-steep sections, as bumpy as can be, all surrounded by lava rock, because you’re on an active volcano after all. Well, active, but whose last eruption dates back 2,000 years. Night was falling, so I couldn’t quite make it to the end, just 2-3 km short, but the experience is really worth it, especially to catch the sunset. Allow 1.5 to 2 hours for the round trip, photo stops included.

Discover the Snaefellsnes peninsula here

The famous Ingjaldshóll church in autumn colours

A proper routalakon to reach the foot of the glacier

To make life and trip planning easier, I’ve created an interactive map of Iceland. It includes:

• the must-see places
• the waterfalls, hikes, thermal baths…
• the activities
• the accommodation
• in short, everything you need!

Day 8: driving to the Westfjords via roads 60 and 62

The goal is to reach the Westfjords, the most remote region of the country and considered the most beautiful and the wildest. It has to be said that very few people live there year-round, because the roads are closed for much of the year. So the villages end up completely cut off from the rest of the country, even if the infrastructure is gradually improving over the years (tunnels).
The road out of Snaefellsnes is quite long, and completely empty. It takes me several hours before I pass the first car! You can feel how truly wild it is; there’s even more wind, and the landscapes are more impressive. The string of fjords takes shape in the distance.
I follow the south coast on road 60, then road 62 to a campsite near Breidavik, so I can do the Latrabjarg reserve first thing tomorrow morning. But at this time of year, entire villages are shut, the roads blocked off. It’s really, but really empty 😀

A little hint of Scotland, and no one on the road!

A string of fjords as far as the eye can see

Day 9: the Latrabjarg cliffs and Dynjandi waterfall

Now pay attention, champ. Latrabjarg is THE bird reserve of the country and the place to see, in particular, puffins in their thousands and other migratory birds. A wild spot where you can get right up close to the cliffs and the birds, so it sounds like a little paradise. Except that… migratory birds, in October. The reserve having been empty for 6 weeks, the only surprising thing is the silence. And the odd tern here and there. But they’re beautiful cliffs, it’s a superb wild place – though of course you’re better off coming at the right time of year… 😀
After this glorious failure, I still make the most of the place a little before hitting the road again for the fjords and highlands, with a goal (an achievable one this time): the fabulous Dynjandi waterfall. To get there, I follow the fjords but also cross the highlands, which offer extraordinary views over untouched valleys. Driving here is more than a pleasure.

The magnificent Dynjandi waterfall, enormous

View from the highlands as I descend into a valley

Day 10: the seven fjords from Isafjordur, and a whale

For this last day in the Westfjords, the main goal is to reach the eastern side of the peninsula by crossing 7 fjords from Isafjordur. The major appeal of this drive lies in the landscapes, the multitude of waterfalls you pass and (finally!) a whale. Well, “seen” is a bit of a stretch. Because it just showed its back a few times, and it wasn’t all that big. But when you’re in the fjords, always keep an eye on the water, because something can pop up at any moment 🙂

The superb cliffs of the Westfjords

Riiight, I did manage to see a pretty good aurora, all the same, among the sheep

Day 11: back to Reykjavik via the F35 (Kjölur) and Kerlingarfjoll

The idea is to head back to Reykjavik via the F35, otherwise known as Kjölur, the bumpy road that crosses the country through the centre, and which I’d already caught a glimpse of at the very start of the trip.
It’s a special road and I loved it, because it passes through completely deserted places, but between two immense ice caps: Langjökull and Hofsjökull, which, after the famous Vatnajokull, are the largest in the country. No less than that. And it’s true that you see them appear from dozens of kilometres away, and they never leave the landscape, they’re so vast. You’ll also pass Hveravellir, a fairly active geothermal area completely devoid of tourists.
Kjölur is one of the wildest places in the country, and that’s exactly what appeals – or puts people off. The road can sometimes (often?) be tough; it’s only open a few weeks a year (from June to September), but it offers an exceptional panorama and other surprising little roads. Notably the chance to head to the Kerlingarfjoll mountains, exceptionally beautiful and perfect for hiking.
In fact, it’s so bumpy that my spare wheel decided to make a run for it just a few kilometres before getting back onto tarmac. I really do wonder how I’m going to explain that to the hire company… 😀

The desert as far as the eye can see, but surrounded by immense glaciers

The view from Kerlingarfjoll is exceptional

Day 12: the Blue Lagoon and the Reykjanes peninsula

Before returning the van this afternoon, I wanted to take the chance to explore a rather hostile part of the country: the Reykjanes peninsula. The one that’s home to the airport and that you cross to get to Reykjavik. Hostile because it’s nothing but an immense lava field, with black rock cliffs, a wind straight from hell, and… the Blue Lagoon. OK, granted, there are more hostile things than the Blue Lagoon. But after those few days sleeping in the van, I wanted to enjoy the relaxation of these turquoise thermal waters. And honestly, I wasn’t disappointed! For the 8am opening there are fewer tourists, and it lets you see the sunrise.
Then it’s time to return the van and explain the disappearance of the spare wheel… 😀

Discover the Blue Lagoon here!

The Blue Lagoon amid the steam

The turquoise waters of the Blue Lagoon

FAQ: planning your road trip in the west of Iceland

How many days do you need to do the west of Iceland?

12 days is comfortable: you have time to dawdle, to wait for the right light, to stop ten times. In 8 or 9 days, you can do the Golden Circle, Snaefellsnes and the Westfjords without rushing. Under 6 days, forget the Westfjords: they’re far, the roads are slow, and you’d spend your whole trip driving. Better to do less, but do it properly!

How far is this itinerary?

Between 2,000 and 2,500 km depending on the detours you make. It sounds enormous, but you rarely drive more than 3 hours a day. One thing not to forget, though: since January 2026, Iceland has replaced fuel taxes with a distance-based tax of 6.95 ISK/km. On this route, that adds up to 100-120 € for that alone.

What budget should you plan for 12 days in a van in the west?

For two people in high season, reckon on 2,500 to 3,500 € on the ground, excluding flights. It’s the van that weighs heaviest (from 100 to 260 € a day depending on the season and the model), then the campsites, fuel and the famous distance tax. In May or September, the same trip will easily cost you 40% less.

Is the Camping Card worth it?

It costs 179 € in 2026 and covers 28 nights for two adults, at around forty campsites, until 15 September only. For two people, it pays off at around 7 to 10 nights. But be careful: it covers neither electricity, nor showers, nor the tourist tax, and with three adults it becomes an outright loss. Do the maths before buying it!

Where do you shower when sleeping in a van?

At the municipal swimming pools, without a second’s hesitation. There are around 120 of them in the country; entry costs 1,500 ISK and a 10-entry card 7,000 ISK, i.e. 700 ISK a shower. It’s hot, it’s spotless, and you get a swim into the bargain. A little local rule worth knowing: a naked shower with soap is compulsory before getting into the pool!

Can you sleep anywhere in a van in Iceland?

No, and it’s very clear: since 2015, sleeping in a van, motorhome or caravan outside a campsite has been banned, with a fine that starts at 50,000 ISK. Only tents escape the rule, for one night, on uncultivated land. Rest assured, there are plenty of campsites, including around twenty open all year round.

When should you go to do this itinerary?

From mid-June to mid-September if you want to find the F roads open: it’s the only window when everything is accessible at the same time. My favourite slot remains the first half of September. Prices drop, the campsites are still open, there are far fewer people, and the northern lights are already back. The perfect combo, truly!

Are the Westfjords really worth the detour?

For me, it’s the finest part of this itinerary, and by far. But let’s be honest: the roads there are slow, often gravel, and you should allow 3 days minimum, more like 4 or 5 to really enjoy them. If your trip is less than 8 days, save them for next time. They deserve far better than a flying visit.

In conclusion

A lot of driving, but discovering the whole west of Iceland is something quite magnificent. Exceptional places, very few tourists – it has to be said that travelling in a 4×4 campervan in October lets you feel utterly alone in the world and reach places most tourists simply can’t get to.
Iceland isn’t a one-visit destination. Every visit, every trip makes the experience different, because of the weather, the light, the season. And I don’t think you could ever grow tired of it 🙂